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McD's Um Um Can't say anything nice so will be silent. Just know that I am squirming  Walked by the Alabama Hills Cafe today. They open a 6:00am on weekdays. Would this be acceptable? yes  So road to Meysan trailhead is open. Hmmmm....we may be camping up there to get in some altitude prior to the stomp. Speedy - wanna come stay w/ us?
Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.
Helen Keller
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The road isn't open... unless you happen to have a vehicle like one above with big chains on all four wheels. And the skill to drive over one big pile of ice.
Doug and I were up there in the dually this afternoon working it (Doug, that is.) He made a bit of a dent in it (the avalache), but didn't want to risk getting stuck high-centered. He commented that he thinks it WILL melt out in a week, or so.
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I'm packing my gear for my the trip:
Ice Axe
crampons
helmet
harness (if we are roping up?)
Snowshoes
I get the impression most people don't use snowshoes for the climb? Will the snow be hard packed to forego snowshoes the whole hike?
THanks,
-matt
-Matt
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MC sorry you cant make it, hope to meet you at later date..
I see a Thor peak(from LBSL) and MR on this trip, we'll see..
mark
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Matt, leave the snowshoes at home unless you hear that the Sierra gets dumped on just prior to your trip out. There's a boot track all the way to the top.
I think Mike and Wes are carrying a rope for some ice climbing on the Blue Ice above LBSL. You'll have to ask them if they are taking up on summit day.
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Richard, thanks for the advice on snowshoes. As for ropes, I wasn't sure if protocol was to use ropes on the ascent/descent of the MR route for this trip. Seems like TRs vary on whether or not they use them. If no ropes are in the plans for this trip, I'm fine with that. Looking forward to it!
Thanks.
-Matt
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Just a quick question if you don't mind. After Whitney, I was thinking of another 14er in the area. Is the approach to Muir, Russell or Langley accessible in late April?
I know they are all rated as year-round climbs but without a lot of traffic, I would imagine it would be long slog with a lot of trail breaking. In any event, any suggestions for a second climb for me?
Thanks,
Alan Alan, Langley is a great climb via Tuttle Creek and Northeast couloir. By April you should be able to get to the trailhead at 6,900ft. There's good water source at 9,900'. Good camping from there to 10,500'. Check out the beta on Summitpost.org I was just up there this weekend. It is like Whitney in elevation gain but much shorter in distance and much much much less crowd. You might even have to break trail and enjoy the soreness of a good day's work. 
Last edited by kevin_trieu; 03/29/10 08:30 AM.
When in doubt, go up.
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Just a quick question if you don't mind. After Whitney, I was thinking of another 14er in the area. Is the approach to Muir, Russell or Langley accessible in late April?
I know they are all rated as year-round climbs but without a lot of traffic, I would imagine it would be long slog with a lot of trail breaking. In any event, any suggestions for a second climb for me?
Thanks,
Alan Alan, Langley is a great climb via Tuttle Creek and Northeast couloir. By April you should be able to get to the trailhead at 6,900ft. There's good water source at 9,900'. Good camping from there to 10,500'. Check out the beta on Summitpost.org I was just up there this weekend. It is like Whitney in elevation gain but much shorter in distance and much much much less crowd. You might even have to break trail and enjoy the soreness of a good day's work. Ditto what my friend Kevin says. It's a nice route with hardly any people. It also would make a nice ski tour. Here are pics from a climb there: Mt. Langley NE Couloir May 1-3, 2009.
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First, totally bummed about MC but understand after going through the house building experience myself.
Thanks Kurt and Kevin for your comments. I looked into Langley but thought the road would be closed so was considering Russell to leverage camping at LBSL for Whitney. I will be back in June for more so which would be better for late April?
Climb On!
Alan
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Alan I'm thinking of climbing Thor on Sunday on the way down the mountain. Russell would be a bit too much for me since I'm driving back to Yorba Linda on Sunday. Just a thought..
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McD's Um Um Can't say anything nice so will be silent. Just know that I am squirming Walked by the Alabama Hills Cafe today. They open a 6:00am on weekdays. Would this be acceptable? That is where I will be getting my chow.. 
Get up! Get moving! That is when life begins.
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Mouse I'm down with that!
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MC sorry you can't make it. You really need to get your priorities [url=straighthttp://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/images/icons/default/grin.gif][url=straighthttp://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/images/icons/default/grin.gif][url=straighthttp://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/images/icons/default/grin.gif]straighthttp://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/images/icons/default/grin.gif[/url][/url][/url]
About the ice...If it was still there & I had some more ice screws, I would love to climb it. But ice pro isn't in the budget my wife informs me;)
Also not sure if I will bring a rope. Mike's pics look like that's not needed for the MR.
Anyone been on the EB? Might look at that, might just sleep in.
Wes
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Anyone been on the EB? Might look at that, might just sleep in.
Hey, no shortcuts buddy!
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As I have been reading this loooong thread I was thinking this has to be some kind of a joke making fun of people who plan trips without knowing much about their partners and getting themselves into trouble. It actually looks like this trip is really something you all are planning to do. There are many comments on this thread that glare out as evidence there are a bunch of people who don't know what they are doing. There just has to be some people out there who are shaking their heads in disbelief that this trip is going to happen. About the ice...If it was still there & I had some more ice screws, I would love to climb it. But ice pro isn't in the budget my wife informs me;) Dude, are you REALLY thinking about ice climbing up there when you don't own any screws??? Do you really think that's a good idea?? If you don't own enough screws to lead a pitch you obviously haven't done very much ice climbing before. Do you know there are no fixed bolts or anchors up there?? Did you plan to leave pro up there to get down or were you going to just thinking about chopping yourself a little bollard or maybe just down climb it?? Wow, just read through this thread, and can't help but feel excited at the adventure in store for everyone going on this trip. I'm from CO, and am on a temp work assignment in CA, and will be spending a week in the Death Valley / Whitney area during the time of your trip. I had been researching the possibility of an April summit bid of Whitney when I stumbled onto this thread.
I know this party is already huge, but if you find room for another, I would certainly love to join. I've summitted 28 14ers in CO, including some of the tougher ones, and have done a couple snow climbs too (though not with rope). Would be a lot of fun to hear stories about the Sierra mountains. I'd consider myself a "fast group" hiker, though I do make many quick stops to take photos. I really love trying to capture the entire adventure on camera, and create online scrapbooks for friends and family to share in the adventure. Hi everyone, I am a friend of MC and have been following this thread. If it is OK, I would like to join the climb on the 16th. I live in Colorado. You can check me out at my site at http://www.alanarnette.comI am almost finished with the Colorado 14ers and would like to work on some California 14ers this summer. The idea of climbing the MR with such a team sounds like a blast. Thanks for your consideration. Alan Hey this is just a big party!! Come one come all. It doesn't matter that we don't know you or haven't climbed with you before. Get a plane ticket and come on out. Hey, bring a couple friends too. Afterall they've done some Colorado 14ers. So I'm just curious. I ask this rhetorically since I already know the answer. What are people's requirements for going on this climb? Who will decide if someone should stop? What are the first aid certifications people have on this climb? If someone gets sick who is going down with them? What emergency gear is coming? First aid kits? What's in them? How many for the group? Who is carrying them? The route above the notch is not exactly a walk in the park. No ropes??? quick confirmation that I will be on the climb. Just booked my flights. Thanks for letting me join in. I am thinking of Mt. Russel on Sunday. _________________________
Climb On!
Alan Dude, what do you know about climbing Mt. Russell? First of all please spell it correctly. Second of all read this thread. Climb on dude. Go rock Mt. Russell. Please tell me this is all an inside joke and you really aren't planning on doing this.
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Sky Pilot,
Thanks for reminding us about the seriousness of this technical hike. Certainly none of us (especially 1st timers on Whitney) should assume the group will cater us up to the peak. I’d hope that everyone involved bares responsibility for their own safety on the mountain (including preparedness for weather/route/supplies), and we all need to be aware of our limits, and humbly bow out before we put others at risk or inconvenience.
When I discovered this forum, while looking for route info and hiking companions, I was happy to find this lively hiking community. While I’ve never met anyone here before, the common love of mountains that we all share makes me feel like we are distant family with an opportunity to meet for the 1st time and share tales of our experiences (a feeling I’ve felt in CO groups as well). I inquired to join this group, not just for what I can get out of it, but for what I can offer too. I’m sure I’m not the only one that feels this way.
-Matt
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Doug did a little calculation of the number of years of experience of those involved. I don't remember what it was, so maybe he'll share it with us. I think he counted 7 people that on the list that he doesn't know how they "rank" in experience.
As he said, the ratio of climbers with enough experience to handle this mountain under ANY situation to "rookies" is probably better than they'd get with most guide services.
And, some may think I was joking up above, but I am a good judge of (climbing) character and won't hesitate to tell someone to head down if I don't think they have what it takes. (Ask CaT about that.) I'm sure that the mother hen (a term of enderement for ZombieDude) will be watching out for the rookies, too. (As will all of the others.)
It takes balls to criticize one of the most capable climbers in all of CA (speaking of the Gimp). I think the 1 screw and sleeping in were his version of Board Humor.
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Hey this is just a big party!! Come one come all. It doesn't matter that we don't know you or haven't climbed with you before. Get a plane ticket and come on out. Hey, bring a couple friends too. Afterall they've done some Colorado 14ers. The route above the notch is not exactly a walk in the park. No ropes??? Alan is an accomplished mountaineer: summitpost and alanarnette.com. Matt posted a link to his web-page: Matt's Home Page. Richard addressed the Gimp. I don’t get involved in ‘cross fire’ on this web-site. I will say that you should do more research before speaking out on other climbers. That said, I understand some of your concerns. Each climber on the team should evaluate their skill level, experience and knowledge of a technical climb such as the MR in winter-like conditions. I know Kurt uses ropes on his MR winter climbs (he has even set fixed lines). Originally, Richard planned on having a rope for me. At one point, fixed lines were mentioned. As the group became quite large, that idea was abandoned; fixed lines would be a lot of work as this isn’t a paid guided climb. The team may want to re-evaluate bringing ropes (maybe share the weight). Just my 2¢...
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Anyone who doubts Alan Arnette's ability or his spelling of Mount Russell, all I have to say is have you browsed his website: http://www.alanarnette.comI think his mountaineering record speaks for itself. --Amin
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And, some may think I was joking up above, but I am a good judge of (climbing) character and won't hesitate to tell someone to head down if I don't think they have what it takes. (Ask CaT about that.) Labor Day weekend of 2004. Yes, I remember. Larry Ulrich was with us, too. Richard is quite correct. Although I did summit (via the MT) in a later year, yet on the 2004 MR hike Richard, Larry and I began together, I only made it as far as UBSL. My turning back at that point was a wise decision. Thanks Richard. CaT
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