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In my opinion, the south face right side route is superior to the popular east ridge route. Done via the "variation" that goes from Upper Boy Scout Lake and then cuts left over Sakai Col (named in the 2009 edition of RJ Secor's guidebook), the quality of climbing and overall experience can't be surpassed. The east ridge itself is nice--especially a fun move sequence near Russell's summit--but there is that tedious approach to the Russell-Carillon plateau. The south face route, after it intersects the ridge between Russell's east and west summits, traverses that same section (picture 97). There's a little 4th class vertical chimney before reaching the ridge, which 'most anyone should be able to do unroped with a little bit of coaching. After that, the summit is only a few hundred feet away.   The day was threatening, but the weather held. The folks on Mt. Whitney, depending on when they were there, weren't as lucky. Pictures
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Great shots. thanks. What happened at Whitney
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What happened at Whitney? See photo 132.
Thanks, Ranger Rockwell. The route does look fun. Maybe I'll try it on the 20th.
Last edited by hightinerary; 07/11/10 09:16 PM.
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Great trip and nice, clear, descriptive photos of that route. Definitely on my list, can't wait to try it.
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I agree with Bob, that chimney is 4th class not 3rd. I thought Mt. Sill's 4th class North Couloir route was easier. The south face right side - East ridge loop is one of my favorite climbs. I need to get back up there again soon, this time without a thunderstorm. 
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Nice pics and trip report guys! It looks like you had a great time. The route looks like a lot of fun. I'd love to try it soon.
So Mike and James, when are we going?
-Ryan
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In my opinion, the south face right side route is superior to the popular east ridge route. Done via the "variation" that goes from Upper Boy Scout Lake and then cuts left over Sakai Col (named in the 2009 edition of RJ Secor's guidebook), the quality of climbing and overall experience can't be surpassed. The east ridge itself is nice--especially a fun move sequence near Russell's summit--but there is that tedious approach to the Russell-Carillon plateau. The south face route, after it intersects the ridge between Russell's east and west summits, traverses that same section I'll bite on this. First of all nice shots Bob. And, yes the moves at the top of Russell are fun. Since this is all opinion based anyways I'd have to disagree with your assessment of Mt. Russell's East Ridge being unexciting. I find the moves fun, the rock quality superb, and the scenery gorgeous. I actually go so far as to say it's one of my favorite 3rd class routes in the Sierra.   
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Isn't the East Ridge of Russell and NE Face of Middle Palisade the only two 3rd class climbs in Peter Croft's The Good, the Great, the Awesome - Top 40 Rock Climbs in the Sierra? If Peter Croft came out and say that the earth is flat, the earth is flat.
Last edited by kevin_trieu; 07/14/10 04:19 PM.
When in doubt, go up.
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Maybe Bob is just trying to be a bit more like me -
- Stir up a little controversy on the message boards.
The hand and foot holds on that route are bomber, so I'd still call it Class 3. It's just steeper than most class 3. No way it's harder than Sill.
I'm not saying which route I like best. I just hate the boulder field you have to cross, above UBSL, to get up to Sakai Col if you're going to do a repeat of Bob's route up there. Same reason why I've never done the Rockwell Variation to get to the East Ridge.
If I could just keep from getting lost on Doug's Slab Route to Russell/Carillon, I'd be up there more often.
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Well, I admire Peter Croft, too,...as well as Kurt Wedberg and Kevin Trieu! I was trying to make a point, realizing the danger that I might tweak some mustaches. I really do like the east ridge per se, even though I don't care so much for the route as a whole. But I am comparing the overall experience of the two routes, including the approaches, and therein lies the difference. I've never cared for getting from Upper Boy Scout Lake to the Russell-Carillon plateau, even by one of the variations up the valley behind Upper Boy Scout Lake. However, the south face route approach from that valley, over Sakai Col and up to the 4th class chimney, is quite nice. The chimney section at the top is too short to offer much in and of itself. But the chimney and its continuation on the final part of the east ridge is delightful. Also, for those wanting to climb the south face, I was recommending this approach instead of the way it is normally done, via Iceberg Lake. The latter is roundabout, and the ascent from Iceberg Lake to Whitney-Russell Pass is not much fun.  By the way, in Kurt's first picture, on the left you can see the final chimney of the south face. And in his third, the climber is beginning the nice section I mentioned that is common to both routes. Mt. Russell is a fine mountain. All ways up have a lot to offer.
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Spectacular photos! Enjoyed the captions, really gives a feel for the south face right side route of Russell. Nice you were able to summit before the weather came in...
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Maybe Bob is just trying to be a bit more like me -
- Stir up a little controversy on the message boards. is there another purpose for message boards?
When in doubt, go up.
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Well, I admire Peter Croft, too,...as well as Kurt Wedberg and Kevin Trieu!
I was trying to make a point, realizing the danger that I might tweak some mustaches. I really do like the east ridge per se, even though I don't care so much for the route as a whole. But I am comparing the overall experience of the two routes, including the approaches, and therein lies the difference. I've never cared for getting from Upper Boy Scout Lake to the Russell-Carillon plateau, even by one of the variations up the valley behind Upper Boy Scout Lake. However, the south face route approach from that valley, over Sakai Col and up to the 4th class chimney, is quite nice.
The chimney section at the top is too short to offer much in and of itself. But the chimney and its continuation on the final part of the east ridge is delightful.
Also, for those wanting to climb the south face, I was recommending this approach instead of the way it is normally done, via Iceberg Lake. The latter is roundabout, and the ascent from Iceberg Lake to Whitney-Russell Pass is not much fun.
By the way, in Kurt's first picture, on the left you can see the final chimney of the south face. And in his third, the climber is beginning the nice section I mentioned that is common to both routes.
Mt. Russell is a fine mountain. All ways up have a lot to offer. I think you might have a point Bob. While Peter has gone up the East Ridge of Russell, he might have never gone down it instead choosing to go down one of the other variations including the Fishook Arete or Mithral Dihedral. And we all agree that going down something is much more exciting than going up. Maybe your accessment that the route isn't exciting might be on point.
When in doubt, go up.
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Ryan, yes, when are we going? And which way to go? East Ridge? South face right side? Or up east ridge and down south face right side? When is a good question.
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While Peter has gone up the East Ridge of Russell, he might have never gone down it.... Actually he has gone down it. I thought I posted about this before, but maybe not. It was 3 November 2002--not exactly the longest day of the year. Later, he wrote about the climb in Gripped, the Canadian climbing magazine. It appeared in the Feb/Mar 2004 issue (used one of my pictures). If your eyes are poor, you can click on it and then select All Sizes. 
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By the way, in Kurt's first picture, on the left you can see the final chimney of the south face. And in his third, the climber is beginning the nice section I mentioned that is common to both routes.
Bob correct me if I'm wrong, but in the first picture are we not looking up at the East Summit? In my understanding the South Face Right Side Chimney is West of the East Summit thus putting it out of the view of the first shot.
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I'm sure you're correct. I was keying in on the look of that chimney on the left, without paying attention to the area around the high point in the distance. The west summit doesn't look like that, and there are some other problems as well.
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Hey Bob thanks for the quick response. I'm going up next week and wanted to make sure my homework was correct. BTW cool pics. BP
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Off topic but am I the only one to notice that Peter Croft climbed E. Face, Fish hook arete and a class 4 on Mt. Carl Heller in one day and was disappointed about not getting to the portal store before it closed. WOW!
Last edited by skydiveken; 07/15/10 04:42 AM.
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The hand and foot holds on that route are bomber, so I'd still call it Class 3. It's just steeper than most class 3. No way it's harder than Sill.
DisAgree. I did both last year, and consider the Mt Russell route much, much more exposed and intimidating, although I stayed on the "top" of the ridge the whole way, so probably made it harder than it should have been. I did the sandbag NW Ridge (not North Rib) up Tyndall earlier this year, and it is also way more difficult and intimidating than Sill. Perhaps I just found an easy SLOT up Sill last fall... I think I took the one on the right.. but it was a pure cakewalk, easy, perfect, Class 3, lots of fun and no worries... not like Russell or Tyndall... Just my opinion...but I took the same 28 yr old newbie up all three (no rope or gear) and he made Sill easily, but not the other two....
the Rockwell Variation to get to the East Ridge. ...
on my hit list for late Aug..... sounds like a good alt route up, then come down the kniferidge...or even better traverse over to whitney?
Mark
"Fetchez la vache." the French Knight
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