Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board First timers

My friend and I did not make the lottery. We still are looking forward to hiking Whitney anywhere from mid July on through early September, we're flexible and can go during the week. I have heard if you show up (there's only two of us) during the week, your chances are high there will be cancellations. Do any of you "regulars" who watch this board know if this is true and/or have any advice on how to insure our trip? Any advice is very appreciated. Thanks.

Enjoy Life!
Victor

It's true. So far my success rate at getting walk-in permits for the Whitney Zone is 100%.

Hey sacklunch. We are heading out from Arlington too, next week - small world!

Have you (or has anyone) heard anything about conditions on Mt. Muir? We're thinking of making a side trip, and wondering if it's icy.

Thanks!

Look at Norma R's photo album from Mt. Muir from a couple of weeks ago.

There should be only small patches of snow up there.

Thanks Hightinerary for the tip. We'll be trying for a Monday-Tuesday permit and have a back up plan to go to Mt. Langley just in case.

Thanks
V

I should have noted that I was always asking for one-day permits, for one person.

I did Mt. Muir on the way down from Mt. Whitney yesterday. There was no snow on Mt. Muir.

How's the trail from Trail Camp to the summit? Please let me know if there is much ice or the need for crampons.

Thank you,
Maureen Moran

Read this thread - "Main Trail Conditions Update" and this one.

We are going up to Whitney July 5,6 and 7th. Would really appreciate an update on switchbacks and cable areas. Also, mud and running water.
Thanks in advance

We made the trek on Sun., July 3rd. We did not use our Axe or Crampons, though we carried our Axe just in case. The ice bank in the shade still rises a few feet above the cables, but the path is easily traversed with care. We shortened and planted our hiking poles for the sake of safty. Anyone with experience in hiking through snow should not be alarmed in the least. There are a couple snow fields to pass about tow-thirds the way up the slope to Trail Crest, which are very passible with hiking poles and lugged boots. There is again a mound of snow to cross (about 10-12 ft long) as you reach Trail Crest. While there is some 4th class exposure, the path is easy to cross. We shortened & planted our poles for safty. A ice Axe could be used if handy. There is another large snow field on the backside of Whitney, but it is very easy to travers. The trails are not muddy and the flowing water is not an issue. Overall, i'm not sure that micro-spikes would help much given the softness of the snow, and taking crampons on & off make even introdue more risk for some people. We didn't see anyone using crampons.

Hey Hightinerary, I started calling yesterday and got someones cancellation this morning, so we're in for August 2nd. I'm thinking by then the snow patches will mostly all be gone, but still pretty cool for hiking. Even now, it doesn't sound like the snow is much of an issue, no one is having to use crampons that I can tell.
It's off to San Gorgonio this weeekend!

Thanks to all those that have posted advice to whitney first timers. It helped me to get to the summit and back in one day. Trip Report (July 15) and my insights follow .....

- I have only really started hiking in 2010. All my hikes (<10 in total) have been at or near sea level except for Half Dome which i successfully summited about 3 weeks ago. So I would say that I am a novice hiker.

- I teamed up with one other hiker who has previously climbed Whitney.

- I started with a pack weighing around 20lb's. As it turned out I took much more than I needed, and several other hikers on the trail said to me I had a lot for a day hike. This included a little over 3 quarts of water (which I replenished at the spring around switchback 10 to 15 (both going up and coming back).

- we started from the trailhead at 5.30am just on sunrise. it was cool but we only needed 1 shirt on. The trail to Lone Pine Lake is fairly straightforward with many switchbacks and a few easy creek crossings. The ground is not too rocky and you are excited about the trip, so you seem to move pretty quickly. Between Lone Pine Lake and Trail cramp I start to slow a little as the uphill just keeps continuing, there are more rocky parts to the trail, there are a few areas where snow is on the trail. The snow is no real problem as there are deep track marks right through. Hiking poles helped a little here if you skidded on the snow.

- the 99 switchbacks just go on and on and on. I was trying to do about 10 at a time then have a short rest to catch my breath. I am getting quite exhausted now, am gasping for breath at times, but set myself mini targets to focus on getting to. 1st target - get to the cables ...... the cables were simple, no where near as daunting as I had read (although I imagine with lots more snow it would be tricky). Next target - get to Trail Crest. Eventually we made it to Trail Crest but I am resting more often, gasping for breath and notice my heart rate is quite high. Its an achievement to get to Trail Crest for me. If I only got this far I would have been satisfied ... if even just for the spectacular views.

- Anyway my partner convinces me to push on as the next part is downhill. Thats a relief so I keep going but at this point we notice some dark clouds over to the West. There is thunder and occasional lightning in the distance. Even though I think my mind/brain was getting a little delirious now, I studied the dark clouds and deduced that the bad ones were moving in a direction away from Mt Whitney. My pace gets slower and slower and I take rest breaks more often. I feel like I am losing some co-ordination and balance (not greatly, just mildly). I thought a few times of saying to my partner I am happy to head back now, but I never said it, I just kept going another 10 steps, taking some deep breaths, and then thinking about turning back or continuing on. Then picking a rock 30 yards up and solely focussing on getting to that rock. My partner also encourages me by saying you are so close you would never forgive yourself for giving up now. So this goes on for 1.5 miles until the summit hut is in front of us. Hooray, we finally make it just before 3pm i think. Jubilation - I have achieved the goal I set for myself 2 years ago (well half of it - "getting to the top is only half way"). I tried to write in the summit register but for some reason had trouble with co ordinating the pen in my hand. So my entry was not neat. I didnt notice it being cold or windy on top. I never needed more than a shirt the whole day.

The way down seems to go on for ever, it seems much rockier than it was going up, and my legs are starting to get sore. However I rarely have to stop to catch a breath now except for the uphill section near Trail Crest. We were at Trail Camp around 6pm and at the Portal at 9.23pm. That section from Lone Pine Lake to the Portal just drags on and on and on. It takes twice as long as you think it should take. So the total trip time was 15hr 53mins.

Anyway an absolutely fantastic day, a very gruelling day and we made it back safely All hikers we passed on the trail were very friendly including the guy who had just finished the badwater ultra marathon (and he has won it 4 times - age 59). I knew Whitney in one day was going to be difficult but it was a little more difficult than I thought. For the next time I know I need to do more continued uphill training hikes at high elevation and lighten my pack weight.

The only downer of the day ... I left my 2 black diamond hiking poles right at the start of the trail leaning against a rock at 9.30pm on Thursday. Ive checked at the Store and the Visitor Centre to see if they were handed in - no luck though. I waited at the trailhead Friday night to see if any of the day hikers coming down saw them in the morning or may have "borrowed" them for the day - no luck. So if anyone reading this happened to see some hiking poles lying near the Mt Whitney Trail sign at the Portal on Thursday night or Friday please let me know.

Greg
Sydney, Australia

Doug has written and awesome book: http://www.amazon.com/Mount-Whitney-Moun...9489&sr=1-2 no filler, only pictures that you need, very digestible, blunt, information that will keep you alive and give you exactly what you need to succesfully Summit and return.

I will add that statistically speaking, the weather is relatively mild the 2-3rd week of Sept (usually) and you'll have good chance of summiting in good weather if you choose that time frame. I try to leave and be on the trailhead at 2am at the latest- that way you start by moonlight saving some of your headlamp power for any trouble you may have descending - plus you make it shy of trail camp by sunrise and it's so beautiful to turn around and watch. If you leave early like that, you'll usually be down at back at the Whitney Portal Store in time to order a burger before the store closes- with ample time to order and eat- not 6:55pm when they're closing in 5 minutes. It's nice to return at say 4pm - that way you can also relax with a nice cold beer and your burger.

Good stuff!

Hi Quick note Thanks everyone for posting first time reports I see over 7000 views so many people are reading your reports , I think your insights are of true value to other first timers and maybe old timers can learn a few tricks about the new light weight gear. Thanks Doug

I made a solo attempt on the MR during mid-June. Most would advise against doing this simply due to the “what if” factor. After picking up my permit from the ranger station, I was reassured that I would not be alone since all other 10 permits for my entry day were gone.

For me, I am notoriously slow even with adequate training. It’s just one of those things I guess so I plan accordingly. Lugging a 45lbs pack doesn’t make you faster for some odd reason… I left the portal on a Friday morning around 7am and made it to the ledges in about 45 min. The trail from the portal to the ledges is easy to follow with a great surprise (nice waterfall). From here you will start up the ledges.

Work your way up the ledges with caution. I was a little nervous after some other posts about how narrow they were; however once I was there I felt a little more comfortable and did not feel like plummeting to the earth below. A key marker for me to make the switch up to Lower Boyscout Lake was a gnarly brown tree sans branches and leaves which stands out against the other greenery located on the lower path. Turn here towards LBS and head upwards. Some have said LBS is a great place for lunch, but if you leave in the morning you will be here well before lunch. Bring extra socks – a no brainer but I am glad I followed my own advice and did. When I went in June the water level was pretty high and make for leaping from stone to stone a little precarious and upon one occasion my foot met Mr. Water. This is not Jacuzzi water. This is not tap water. This is freeze your toes off water. Change socks after the crossing if needed.

From LBS to Upper Boyscout I took a longer path than necessary. The best way I found was to stay tucked against the shore of the lake on the left-hand side all the way until you see the two big rocks basically above you on your left. I made a mistake of starting up through the rocks too early and lost 20 minutes here. After about an hour I made it to UBS (aka base camp). This is a great place for summit day if you are doing a O/N trip since there are well defined plots for tents with adequate rocks for you to make wind barriers around your tent if need be.

For the next day (Summit Day) I left UBS late around 6am since I was planning a 4am start. For once I finally fell asleep above 10K which was a welcome treat. From UBS to Iceberg took about 1 hour plodding through the snow (and at this time crampons were needed the rest of the way to the notch). At Iceberg I dawned my helmet and ice axe and headed up that chute. I met a father and son from Alabama (or Arkansas I forget) and in classic mountain camaraderie we became a group of three. The chute is similar to what you find in the Baldy Bowl (Mt. Baldy) although much higher. Not too bad but whenever you are on a snow slope you must know what you’re doing prior to actually getting onto said snow slope. Please don’t rent crampons and expect that since you have them you know how to use them. Please practice beforehand. Also practice self-arresting. This slope is long and if you loose it you run the risk of something very bad happening.

At the top of the slope (which took me 1.5 hours since the altitude was wearing on me now) you turn left to begin the final scramble (class 3/4) to the summit. This stretch is the portion I personally underestimated. This was more exposed than I thought and demands your undivided attention. Start up the left hand side for about 100ft or so then traverse to the right and pick up the boulders for the remainder of the climb. There are a few spots along here where you will need to find hand and foot holds by feel not by sight, so be mentally prepared for this BEFORE you are dangling about the abyss. When you get near the top look for a very narrow chimney (maybe 14-18” wide) and climb up this to the summit. Descend the same way you came being extremely careful to get solid holds on the rocks on your way down. Do not make it all the way to the summit only to make it down in 2 minutes or by helicopter.

All in all this is a great route since you can find yourself alone with the world. I’m not uber-spiritual but even so you do get a chance to connect with something more important than you, your job, your bills, the un-cut yard, and the I-5/405 merge.

Plan ahead and do research on the route, find GPS coordinates if you feel uncertain about locating the trail, and train. If you run 3-5 times per week for 45min+ you should have no issues whatsoever unless altitude affects you. Have your tools and know how to use them. I am a newbie considering all of the talent and knowledge on these pages, but even I wait for the bad headlines when I read of people asking where to rent crampons during March. This is not a beginner’s route, but if you have a solid base it is probably the most beautiful route I’ve taken thus far in California. Have a safe downclimb…

I have permits for Labor Day, which was to be my first time at Whitney. However, through some serendipity (Tioga Pass campgrounds all full), I ended up at the permit office on Friday and scored an overnight permit. Since my dog (Sasha, 40 lb mixed breed) was with me, I knew we wouldn't be going past Trail Crest. Because it was my first time on the mountain, and her first backpacking trip, I set Trail Camp as the probable goal. We had an absolute blast on the trip and made it to Trail Camp.

FRIDAY: Trailhead to Outpost Camp
Having scored the permit Friday near noon, we didn't leave the trailhead until after 1 p.m. (someone pointed out Doug Sr. in the store, but he disappeared before I could say hi). My backpack weighed in at 30 lbs ... definitely not an ultralight, but better than I imagined since I had not packed specifically for Whitney (and was carrying Sasha's food to boot). We enjoyed a lovely hike up, albeit in the heat of the day, up to Outpost Camp.

Sasha was a hit on the trail with her little red backpack and matching boots, and posed (sort of) for many photographs on request. Here is one I took. [img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/41635581@N06/[/img] The booties were annoying to us both as they had a tendency to fall off, but wanting to avoid carrying a 40 lb dog down a mountain in a backpack was a powerful motivator to keep putting them back on.

I was particularly awed by the beauty of Lone Pine Lake ... since people don't mention it that often, it was a bit of a surprise. I enjoyed the beauty, serenity, and collegiality of Outpost Camp, but wished I had brought earplugs to muffle the noise of the parade of hikers going through the camp starting at 3:30 a.m.

SATURDAY Outpost Camp to Trail Camp and back to the Trailhead
By Whitney standards, we got a comparatively late start of 6 a.m. from Outpost Camp. I used my backpack as daypack, and figure it probably weighed about 10-12 lbs with water, food, gear, etc. I enjoyed this part of the hike immensely, too, and I think it was much more fun in part because I was not carrying a full pack (plus it was cooler since it was the morning). I also think having Sasha with me helped with the altitude, because she definitely slowed me down (she was on a leash, but clearly interested in the wildlife off the trail, so keeping her focused took a fair amount of energy). We both made it to Trail Camp feeling great.

When we arrived there, a marmot clearly set off an alarm ("dog in camp! dog in camp!"), so all the other marmots made themselves (temporarily) scarce. I noticed that this happened at other places on the mountain -- marmots definitely have a specific warning call, and it became very familiar to us.

Since it was only about 9:30 am or so after we had our break, I played around with going up to Trail Crest. I ran into Bob R. around this time, and discussed the trail conditions with him. When I checked Sasha's paws, however, I noticed that the rear paws (on which I had not put boots) showed more wear than did her front paws (which had been booted). Turning around would mean a fun day for all; to push on for Trail Crest carried too much risk, especially given how rocky was the trail at that point. So I put booties on all four of Sasha's paws for the trip down, and we headed back to Outpost Camp. We packed up our camp, and headed back down to the trailhead. (Note for dogowners: the boots stayed on much easier going down than going up.) By the time we hit the log crossing, Sasha had become a pro at it. My pack weighed 25 lbs when we got back to the trailhead.

When we got back to Lone Pine, I noticed that the summit was no longer visible as it was engulfed in grey clouds. A ranger told me that it was "probably hailing up there."

Sunday, we did a short hike at Tioga Pass (Gardinsky Lake), and then headed back to the Bay Area.

So, a fantastic if unexpected trip up to Trail Camp. Really enjoyed meeting folks on the trail. Looking forward to Labor Day, and going on up to the summit if conditions and acclimatization permit it.

Some Initial thoughts on my first climb of Mt Whitney, July 25, 2010.

Age: 61
Weight: 180
Height: 6’3”
Very Fit for my age.
Stayed overnight at trail camp on the 24th.
Acclimated by staying at Horseshoe Meadow one night and then another at the Portal Campground.
Starting pack weight at the Portal: 24.5lbs (food and water included)
Ending pack weight (with Wag Bag – don’t ask) 22 lbs.

Section between Outpost Camp and Trail Camp has switchbacks which are worse with taller step ups and steeper grade than the 99 switch back from Trail Camp to Trail Crest. Except for the issue of altitude, if you can make these switchbacks then you can do the 99. And Don’t Count Them! No one agrees on the number and it only makes you pay too much attention to how many there are. There are a lot. Just leave it at that.

Step ups on both sections average between 7-10 inches mostly but many are 10-15 or taller. Making the 10-15 inch ones shorter by carefully choosing your foot placement will help make the climb easier.

Having something to distract you from the relentless climb may be helpful. I listened to a Terry Prachett novel read by Stephen Briggs, hilarious and diverting.

99 switchbacks are surprisingly moderate in their grade.

For the lower section of the switchbacks there are many times when you have to cross running water from snow melt or walk in the trail running with water. (One could see this as an added source of supply if you wanted to skimp on your water carrying.)

Training really helps. Doing training which strengthens your stepping up and down muscles makes all the difference. I climbed the 3600 feet of net elevation to the top of Mt Wilson every Friday for several months with my pack at 25 lbs.

I found wearing my trail runners was effective in making this climb. You really, really don’t need mountaineering boots or any heavy boot to make this climb. Most people I saw on the trail were wearing lighter footwear with many wearing trail runners.

3 liters of water with hydration tabs like Elixer (highly recommended) in the water is about all you need to do the actual climb and descent to and from Trail Camp. I had 3 liters and got back to Trail Camp with about 1 liter left.

I found that eating Snickers bars and carrying a couple of GU squeeze tubes really was all I needed for energy and nourishment.

Trekking poles are a must. But learn to use them effectively before doing Whitney.

Climb can be divided into 3 sections.
1.Switchbacks to Trail Crest. Moderate Grade. See above comments.
2.Trail Crest contouring to Mt Whitney behind the Needles. Very rocky! Unstable footing in many places. A lot of rock hopping.
3.Whitney serpentine trail to the Summit. Gentle grade up the slope of the back of the mountain following a snake like path.

I’ll post my more detailed Trail Report when I have had a chance to copy my trail journal notes and clean them up.

YosemiteSam, congratulations on making it to the top of Mount Whitney.

As daunting as the switchbacks are to most Whitney trekkers, the number of switchbacks is known. In fact, I know of no one who has been up and down the switchbacks more than Bob Rockwell, and he confirmed long ago that there are only 97 switchbacks—not 99 as some think.
Years ago I stood at each of the 97 switchbacks and recorded their GPS readings and elevations. From that data, I created a map of the 97 switchbacks, as you can see here:


So, instead of driving yourself crazy trying to count them, take along the map, and you’ll be able to pretty much know which switchback you are on and how many more there are to go. You can get a copy here.
Have a bit more fun next time by enjoying the 97 switchbacks with your own map!

Someone has to point out which switchback (or switchbacks) are not switchbacks. I know a couple have slight turns, so that may be the problem in counting. When I went down this time, I decided to count and did count a couple that made turns, but may not have been considered "complete" switchbacks. My count was also 99. I'll take a look at your map and go back to my sons gps reading from last year to see if I can figure out my mistake.