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#78681 07/26/10 01:13 AM
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I've always pondered the success rates for first-timers reaching the summit of Mt. Whitney. I'm guessing that at least a quarter don’t make it. If we add in the "survivors"—those who summited but with difficulty—the numbers of first-timers who had a less-than-wonderful experience are considerable.

Yesterday was one of the busiest days on Mt. Whitney I have seen in a while, and I observed quite a few people having a tough time with a few issues. I'm not talking about things they did or didn't do in the weeks and months preceding the climb, but four specific mistakes made on the climb or shortly before. None of it has to be. Avoiding these mistakes can make all the difference. Most seem to involve dayclimbers, not surprising since they are more numerous:
  • Poor pacing
  • Heavy pack
  • Altitude sickness
  • Sleep deprivation
Pacing. Pacing means conserving energy so that you’ll have some left at the end. If you get out of breath, you’re hiking too fast. Better to go slower and take a rest stop every hour, for about ten minutes. Drink half a liter of water or more, and nibble away at your lunch. This will help to forestall those bogeymen of poor hydration and not eating enough.

Packs. A heavy pack is crazy. My daypack yesterday weighed 9 lb on the Whitney Portal scale. That included fruit that my wife thinks I need (pear, apple, peach, cherries), and the tasty BLT sandwich she made—which I did need. Emergency clothing, rain gear, first aid kit, and bivy sack. A Forest Service radio (not exactly light), and a Sierra Cup. There is plenty of water along the way, and virtually none of the regulars treats it. I did carry an empty one-liter canteen to fill up at the spring on the 97 switchbacks, and added snow whenever it got down an inch or two. There was a nice trickle from the snow banks below the summit, to top off on the way up and the way back.

I blame some of the pack weight problem on the REIs, A-16s, and Sport Chalets. There are so many items available for purchase these days, and the marketing folks do a good job of convincing people they really need almost every one.

Altitude Sickness. Fully a third or more of unacclimatized people going to Mt. Whitney will develop AMS. Spending a day at altitude in advance probably helps, a little. Two is better. Everyone who attempts Mt. Whitney should first learn how their body reacts to altitude. Take a day hike to Trail Camp, Kearsarge Pass, or partway to Mt. Langley. If you experience problems, consider Diamox. Notwithstanding conjecture, bias, and ignorance by some, it unequivocally works and is safe. 125 mg two days in advance, the same the day before, and again the day of, is usually recommended.

Sleep deprivation
. Yesterday, I noticed several suffering the effects of little or no sleep. Many had left the Portal at 2 AM, 1 AM, or even midnight, and a few said they hadn’t slept at all before starting out. Many had camped at the Portal, and it is well known that the body likes to stay awake and alert the first night at altitude. So, no surprises. When people ask me about the acclimatization benefits of spending six or eight hours at the Portal or Horseshoe Meadow, I always tell them to instead get a good night’s rest at the Hostel. Take Diamox if you have learned that you are susceptible to altitude illness. Start up rested and ready.

Pulling off a 6000 Calorie day (or whatever it is) is tough enough, without missing sleep since two nights ago. Some want to leave early to see the sunrise high up or on top, but if that’s your only reason, I’d save it for your second trip. For your first trip, concentrate on doing everything you can to minimize the physical problems and, hopefully, contribute to reaching the summit. You’ll learn a lot about your body in the process…to apply the next time you go. (Possible thunderstorms are another reason for leaving early. You can gauge the likelihood by checking dmatt or NOAA predictions the day before.)

Many of us preach the importance of staying hydrated, and the sermons seem to have helped. I ran into only a couple of people who complained of being out of water and thirsty. (Above Trail Crest, I shared my meager supply with one lady who was ravaged by AMS, and still had water left when I arrived back at that spring on the switchbacks.)

These are far from new concepts, and this is not intended as a lecture for the experienced. I just wanted to point out that quite a few first-timers aren’t paying attention.

Bob R #78682 07/26/10 02:05 AM
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Interestingly enough, Paul Richin's Mount Whitney Book (2nd edition) says "Based on records kept by the Sequoia National Park and the Inyo National Forest, only about 1/3 of those attempting the peak reach the summit."

Not sure how valid this number is but seems awfully low.

--Amin

Amin F. #78685 07/26/10 02:49 AM
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Amin, that low figure would be even lower if you include these folks:
"Expeditions are born in the minds of men and more of them die there than are defeated by avalanches, bad weather, and misfortune combined." Nicholas Clinch, A Walk in the Sky

Bob, you gave some very good advice. Thanks.

I guess you gotta get on Twitter Mt to be heard. Oh, never mind.
Wonder if that's the next new category for SARs: unprepared hiker falls to death while texting. Harvey

Bob R #78687 07/26/10 03:00 AM
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Good stuff Bob. I think about how important sleeping at least two nights at elevation has been for me in warding off any altitude issues, but I read so many posts by folks who plan to "drive to the Portal and spend the night" before starting a dayhike. Well, if you're dayhiking the next morning - like 2:00 or 3:00 am - you're really not even spending one night at altitude, let alone getting enough sleep to cope with burning those 6K calories.

I was one of those failed first-timers, and I definitely learned from the experience. For me, night-time acclimation and sleep were critical to be able to stand on the summit of Whitney and feel great.

Bob R #78690 07/26/10 03:28 AM
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Bob,

Vital and important post, thank you. If in doubt always hike your first few Whitney hikes with your spouse. They will likely have more sense so they can "rein you in" when pacing and all other factors start going off the charts. That is only said half in jest. All of your factors are spot on.

I hope you will join the Candlelight hike.

JL

Bob R #78696 07/26/10 05:52 AM
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Hey, saw you up there at Trail Camp! Great day for a hike!

Bob R #78699 07/26/10 06:20 AM
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I really find FOOD to be a very important component of making the summit. When Bulldog and I woke up the other morning at Consultation Lake, I wasn't very hungry, but made sure I ate, including a great cup of instant Grits filled with carbs! I'm 215 and I love eating, but along the trail, it's tough. I do make myself eat, just a little at a time and try to find something I want to eat. The bars really start turning my stomach after the first day. The BLT sounds great. A turkey sandwich works for me, but PB and J doesn't sound good on a hike. It's a personal thing and you need to know what you will actually want to eat at elevation.

When we reached the summit, there was quite a party going on with sliced beef, chipotle beans and corn, chips and other edibles. They all looked awful to me. Not because they were not good, but because the thought of that food turned my stomach. What I did see was three very large juicy apples.....and I grabbed one and it hit the spot.

Everyone has to find what they can enjoy eating on a long hike......and it will be different than what you want to eat at sea level. I'm not sure why, but the same chocolate bar in Temecula that tastes delicious, may not look appetizing at all at 14,000 feet.

One thing I think everyone can agree is that after a hike, Burgers and Fries at the Portal taste wonderful at 8689 feet.



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Bob, when we did our research project a few years back, interviewing about 2,000 attemptees on the way down, my guesstimate for failure rate was about the same 25% figure you estimate. Of course, we did not talk to everybody, so there is some selection bias. But I think it is reasonable. The actual success rate in those we interviewed was 81%.

As I recall, about 43% of people met the strict Lake Louise Criteria for AMS, although a lot of other people reported headaches, but were unclear about other symptoms required for the diagnosis. I suspect that many of those were also having less severe AMS.

The only other thing I'd add is about the ten minute break that you advise, (with which I STRONGLY concur): I think it is important for people to GET OFF THEIR FEET during those ten minutes. I often see people reluctant to drop their pack and sit down, but when one is standing, your leg muscles ARE
working.

One of the things that contributes to end-stage collapse, is profound exhaustion of the leg muscles. This is the result of continuous excercise beyond the capacity of the muscles. When it happens, there is basically nothing to do but rest...even if on the switchbacks. Periodic rest on the way, helps to prevent this. I've experienced this, and one is basically helpless. Also consider that the second half of the trip is downhill basically all the way, and MUCH MUCH harder on the legs. So what seem fine on the way up may eventually catch up to a hiker, when they have little that they can do, but stop.

I think that was part of what happened to the lady that Bob helped down a week or so ago. She basically could not walk, her leg muscles would not work.

But as they say, your mileage may vary......

Bob R #78707 07/26/10 03:32 PM
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Ah yes, the first trip up the mountain when I knew everything. Boy, I still remember that day. Bob, I did everything wrong...to fast...and it still took me 16 hours, heavy 50 L pack with all the unnecessary goodies inside...including a 4 "D" cell snake light, the alien trying to crawl out of my right eye headache at Trail Camp on the way up and a poor night's of sleep in the 2 ton tent...a Ford Taurus.

I swore I'd never come back here again...until the next day when I started planning our next trip.

Two years later...the pace was a lot better...it still took 16 hours but I had a lot left in tank when I got back to WP, the 50L monster pack and snake light had been downsized, AMS was not an issue because of better hydration and Ford Taurus was replaced with a REI Half Dome.

It was a much better experience.

Last edited by wbtravis5152; 07/26/10 03:57 PM.
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Great post. As one prepping to do the one day hike, could you give a list of the things you actually take in your pack? For this time of year I think your point on too heavy packs is right on. A list would be helpful to the rookies.

gcadman #78719 07/26/10 06:59 PM
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tif
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Originally Posted By gcadman
Great post. As one prepping to do the one day hike, could you give a list of the things you actually take in your pack? For this time of year I think your point on too heavy packs is right on. A list would be helpful to the rookies.


Would be helpful to the not quite rookies anymore too who are looking to pare down the packweight. =)

tif #78720 07/26/10 07:01 PM
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I agree and my knees would appreciate any help in taking less.

Originally Posted By tif
Originally Posted By gcadman
Great post. As one prepping to do the one day hike, could you give a list of the things you actually take in your pack? For this time of year I think your point on too heavy packs is right on. A list would be helpful to the rookies.


Would be helpful to the not quite rookies anymore too who are looking to pare down the packweight. =)

gcadman #78721 07/26/10 07:31 PM
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I actually had to Google the Sierra Cup, but once I saw it I was reminded of some of my classic, sturdy Boy Scout equipment from lo those many years ago:

Sierra Cup

This and a canteen - not a 3L Camelbak and a 16 oz nalgene - to me are the mark of a well-seasoned Sierra pro. It also saves quite a bit of weight in carried water and filtration/purification devices. You just have to have a lot of faith in the water quality as well as the inclination to drink your fill as you hit available water sources along the trail. The other lightweight option is the SteriPEN versus filter - my next gear move for Sierra trips. I will still use a filter locally, but I've heard enough from the Sierra giants that I'm willing to trust just about any high water source in those mountains, with the exception of the pond at Trail Camp.

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I used a steripen on my last two backpacking trips, including Whitney this weekend. One issue with the steripen is whether you get the classic version (slightly heavier, but can use AA batteries including rechargables)or the sport version (lighter, and will tell you how many treatments you have left, but batteries are harder to find and not rechargeable). I went with the classic and have found it easy to use and relatively lightweight, though necessary to practice before you hit the trail so you can be sure you know what each of the flashing lights mean.

gcadman #78734 07/27/10 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted By tif
Originally Posted By gcadman
Great post. As one prepping to do the one day hike, could you give a list of the things you actually take in your pack? For this time of year I think your point on too heavy packs is right on. A list would be helpful to the rookies.

Would be helpful to the not quite rookies anymore too who are looking to pare down the packweight. =)

The easiest way to answer this is to mention my Ultralight Pack list for overnight climbs. Just subtract the things like sleeping bag and pad, and you end up with about 3 ½ lb, plus food. Of course, you can make do with a smaller and perhaps lighter pack for dayclimbs.

Bob R #78738 07/27/10 04:43 AM
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Bob...I like this information. I did not make it on my first trip and it was because of food...I did not listen to my stomach when it told me to eat, I was set on eating at a specific time and place. I always tell other of my experience with food, take a variety, cause like others have mentioned you never know what you will be hungary for. On my second trip I took snack size zip bags with small quantities of what I like best and several peices of fruit, no food problems the second trip.

Kens point on giving the legs a rest makes good sense and I think I will try it more often. I never like to sit down when I take a break, and I can now see how this may have an affect my hiking.

I did make summit on my second attempt, but I did find that my first attempt was valuable, I was able to experience parts of the trail and knew what to expect on my next try.

Thanks
Patty

Bob R #78741 07/27/10 02:51 PM
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Experience and knowledge give you the ability to carry a lighter pack. I can carry a much lighter pack than I do but because I feel more comfortable certain items coming a long for the ride the one I carry is substantially heavier than Bob's 9 pounder...mostly water weight because I'm too lazy to stop and dip a cup into the creek.

Based on questions over the years, I've come to the conclusion a large fraction of people never looked at a detailed map before coming here. If they did, they would never inquiry about where the water is. It is plain as day where the water is, if you take the time and look at the map. I did before my first trip here and had very few surprises all day.

Bob R #78779 07/28/10 07:38 PM
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I did an impromptu dayhike on 7/22/10. Since my other backpacking plans got derailed, on 7/20/10 (while at Disneyland) I decided to take a shot at a dayhike without any specific dayhike preparation. I've done the trail as an overnight in 2006, so I knew what I was getting into.

I may post a more detailed trip report later, but in relation to Bob's comments I'll say a good nights sleep is important. I stayed at the hostel the night before but didn't sleep well due to a loud roommate. When I got to the Portal about 1:30AM I knew I needed more sleep so I napped in the car. I overslept and didn't get started until almost 5AM. Once at Trail Crest I knew I didn't have enough time to summit, drive back to LA, and spend 7/23/10 at Disneyland (yes, again) without being overly tired. So I headed home.

As far as a gear list, what Bob mentions is just about the whole enchilada (spare clothing, rain shell, emergency bivy, and down-sized first aid kit). I also brought a Steripen. My pack was about 8 lbs including a full 20oz Gatorade and a little extra food.

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Originally Posted By oohikeroo

Kens point on giving the legs a rest makes good sense and I think I will try it more often. I never like to sit down when I take a break, and I can now see how this may have an affect my hiking.



Mountaineering rules:
Why stand when you can sit.
Why sit when you can lay down.
Why lay down when you can sleep.

Bob R #78856 07/30/10 06:31 PM
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A few friends and I recently made our first trip up to Whitney 2 weeks back and successfully summited. I am not sure if it was the best idea or not but for an added challenge we decided our first ascent of Whitney (see also our first real mountaineering experience) would be via the Mountaineer's Route.

We did a few things right such as train our butts off before the trip (I think lack of conditioning / training prior to the climb is also a rookie mistake). Additionally we camped at the portal the first night and established a base camp at upper boy scout lake on the second day in order to give us enough time at altitude to acclimatize. Despite spending the extra time at altitude we all suffered from insomnia and summited with little to no sleep.

Further, we did several things wrong. We paced ourselves extremely poorly. We are all used to doing activities where you go as hard as you can... then rest... then repeat. Clearly that doesn't work with mountaineering. Additionally while we were all well hydrated we did not eat enough while on the trail. Though the trip only lasted 3 days I lost a bunch of weight. When looking at pictures from the first day of the trip vs the last day of the trip the weight loss in my face became very noticeable. In my mind clearly not a good thing.

With regards to weight I think we were ok but could have been better. Our packs weighed between 35# and 40# on the way to UBSL. This is skewed by the fact that we were told we had to carry bear canisters which added a good 5lbs to each pack. However on summit day our packs were pretty light.

In hindsight I wouldn't say we merely survived but we definitely made some mistakes that made the going just a bit tougher than it needed to be.


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