Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board West Side Routes

Hi - we summited last year 7/17 from the west and only encountered significant snow at Kaweah gap. Got by without snow shoes, etc. I'd be very interested to hear your experience with HST/John Muir trail conditions this year. Thanks very much for the help.

John in Virginia

John:

We're doing HST W to E starting 7/11. Summit on the 19th or 20th. Looking at Kaweah Gap as the only place of real concern for snow, but its down to 7000 at latest report, so it should be interesting.

I have been looking for beta for the west side, but it seems a lot harder to come by than for the Crest. Can you recommend any sources for HST trail info. I am on HSTopix, but all the HST stuff is 2 years old. Anything you can point me to will be much appreciated. I'll be reporting in detail on this trip.

Salty - we'll be at Bearpaw the night of the 11th. Last year, we spent 5 nights on the trail from Crescent Meadow and it was perfect. We used a Tom Harrison map and Paul Richins Book - Mount Whitney , 2nd edition. Superb reference and Paul is most approachable.

I think we were the 2nd party over Kaweah last year and we just had to guess at the route - we guessed right - and then crossing the Big Arroyo had fast moving water to mid thigh. All the rest of the crossings were less difficult.

Let's stay in touch.

John

Hi John and Salty,

I am starting the HST out of Crescent Meadow late July 23 or early July 24. I too have a keen interest on how condtions are shaping up due to the heavy snowfall. When the summer ranger(hopefully Nina again) starts patrols out of Bearpaw Meadow this summer, some beta should flow back to the ranger at the Lodgepole Wilderness Center. I plan to call him periodically as we get into July.

John, I believe I ran into you and your daughter on the HST July
12,2009 just west of Bearpaw Meadow. I was Whitney bound and conditions in early 2009 on the HST were friendly. As you know, 2010 was a different story. Creek crossings were a challenge several times. I believe my daughter and I were just ahead of you and your son. We also found crossing Big Arroyo Creek to be the biggest challenge.

This year I am solo. I am considering crossing Big Arroyo Creek ASAP after negotiating the Kaweah Gap and then going cross country until I rejoin the HST just after it crosses Big Arroyo Creek. Has anyone done this? Please let me know if it a bad idea.

Last year Whitney Creek in the Kern Trench looked like a challenge. However, the ranger placed some logs across the creek a couple of hundred yards upstream. If such a courtesy does not materialize this year, Plan B might be a scrabble up Whitney Creek to Crabtree Meadow. Bailing from the Kern Trench to the south is not a slam dunk, as crossing Rattlesnake Creek can be an issue.

John and Salty, as I am starting the HST after you this year, I would appreciate if you post a HST conditions update when you complete your outing.

Have a great hike.

Jim F

Jim & John: Boy am I glad to meet you guys. Jim : we were planning on Mehrten Creek minimum the first day out, maybe Buck, as we have 10 days to do the whole route and were looking to avoid a night at Bearpaw. MAy change that. Are you going on from Bearpaw? If so, I may accelerate if you think there could be strength in numbers approaching Kaweah Gap. Don't want to horn in on your hike, but we could take a spell cutting trail, if called for.

John: I am also looking at crossing Big A early: will probably have to wing that depending on conditions we find. Definitely looking to avoid snow bridges:
CHeck this out

More later thanks for posting.

Jim and Salty- Aloha - Nice keeping up with you both. Last year our overnights were Bearpaw HSC, Big Arroyo, Kern Hot Spring, Junction Meadow and Guitar Lake. I remember starting to look at the trail conditions at the end of June, worrying alot, and then it just sort of worked out. We'll be a party of 4 this year.

I,too, look forward to Nina Wiseman's reports. Is the Bearpaw camp open? Carolyn working? Horse resupply going out twice weekly to resupply and eventually update trail conditions? Also, isn't there a 2nd ranger stationed between Junction Meadow and Guitar Lake? He/she may not be there yet but that would also be a good source.

With a "glass is half full" approach, we have four weeks. How about that "Go Sun, Go Sun" cheer?

John

SPOILER ALERT FOR THE LAST SEASON book:

It has been a while since I read Eric Blehm's book the Last Season but this recent incident posted by SaltyDog reminds me of Randy Morgenson and his accident. This woman was very lucky that someone was around to assist her, unlike Randy who did not have anyone in the area to help him. George Durkee who figures prominently in the book & hangs his hat in the summers at Charlotte Lake Ranger Station might agree or disagee with my recollection. George is someone I admire and hope to meet some summer !

There would be at least 2 on or near HST: Tyndall and Crabtree.

PS: Oops: Jim and John: I think I got you confused in a previous post: JOHN, I should have said, I may accelerate my itinerary if you are headed up beyond Bearpaw on the 12th don't mind meeting up.

JIM I will be glad to post or get you a PM as soon as I can. Will be at the Portal and Lone Pine on the 20th, not back to civilization till the 22d, but will try to get online in there somewhere.

Salty (and Jim) - We always start our trips at the Bearpaw High Sierra Camp and will depart after breakfast. Company is always welcome as long as you're not an axe murderer or anything. We hiked with two delightful deaf gentlemen last year and it made stream crossings easier. I'll be bringing some rope and poles this time. As the weather picture unfolds this would be a nice way to keep each other informed. Last year we needed nothing for snow as hiking boots and shorts (until Guitar Lake - 41 degrees) were sufficient.

You should know that snow at Kaweah Gap stimied our attempt 3 years ago departing 6/30 from Lodgepole.

John

John: I'll keep that in mind, with an alternate plan for a loop maybe south from Bearpaw. We'll see in a couple of weeks. BTW, a post by George, NP Ranger, on the other Whitney site, indicates backcountry rangers will be going in next week. Nothing more specific than that, but worth keeping an eye on.

I went up Mt Whitney from the east yesterday (Saturday, June 18). Some of my observations on the approach from the west:

(1) Solid snow from Timberline Lake to the switchbacks (on the west side)

(2) Timberline Lake and Guitar Lake frozen, but some evidence of thawing

(3) Top half of switchbacks on west side clear of snow.

Two PCT hikers I talked to in Bishop this morning noted:

(4) Bottom half of the switchbacks on the west side difficult to negotiate due to snow

(5) Wallace Creek fairly challenging to cross.

Overall, it seems that it has been fairly warm in the High Country recently and snow is melting quickly.

Best wishes, Jim

PS- Incidently, there is no evidence yet of anyone using the switchbacks on the Main Trail on the east side.

Jim: Thanks for the update. I have been thinking that the crux of the HST in 3 weeks should be Kaweah Gap but I am keeping my eye on that patch you reported on: Guitar Lake through lower half of the Whitney switchbacks. Kaweah Gap will take care of itself: ether it goes or it doesn't. If it doesn't, well we improvise a loop for a few days. Once we get to Guitar Lake, however, probably don't have time to flip, so I am looking for really good beta on that in the next couple of weeks.

A lot of PCTers flipping and bailing this week. I understand the leading parties are stopped north of Tuolomne. Third hand info on that, so I don't know how accurate.

One thing I am prepared for is not using the switchbacks down from Trail Crest, and maybe won''t need clear trail up from Guitar, either.

I spoke with the folks at Lodgepole today. The Bearpaw High Sierra camp, normally open Mem Day WE, is still closed. I've been there 5 times, never seen so much as a flake of snow, and reportedly there'4 - 5' of snow now. Snow bridges mark the streams. But, I'm not certain as to the age of this information. Also, I think the temp was supposed to be 105 in the foot hills today.

I was also told that the rangers were headed out this week so hopefully we can get accurate information upon which to make decisions. My fingers are crossed...but I'm going to start thinking about some type of plan B too.

John

PS Jim, keep the news coming!

I copied this from Postholer.com,

her 6/20 report
http://postholer.com/journal/viewJournal.php?sid=7dd51f3569edf33ffb23d2f4dc87fdf8&entry_id=23734

she does not even mention any specific Whitney west side problems but obviously they are there (as posted by others) and elsewhere


Today is a zero. We are in Independence. We have been out 7 days. It is great to have a rest day. Hiked from Kennedy Meadow to Kearsage Pass. I have 26 more minutes at the library so this will be short. We had a great hike so far and on the last stretch we climbed Mt. Whitney highest mountain in the contiguous US at over 14,000 feet outstanding. I think it is best to do it from the PCT, no limit on number of hikers, camping above 10,000 several nights in advance, 15 miles round trip, having hiked over 700 miles already, etc. Anyway we were looking pretty good passing these young athletic men who were really hurting, and we were doing it in our Brooks tennis shoes (trail runners) with microspikes for traction on the early snow. Then the next day we went on to go over Forrester Pass which is 13,000 plus highest point on the Pacific Crest Trail. That was a day! Started at 5:45 and hiked til 6:45 when we could find a patch a semi dry land to pitch the tent on. I was gassed. We were on snow 90% of the day and crossed 4 creeks two knee deep and one up to the tops of our thighs. I think your adenalin is flowing pretty good because you don't feel the cold as you are crossing the creek which is rushing but when you step out the other side it takes your breath away. All you can do to warm up is start walking. On Forrester we postholed quite a while which scraped up the back of my calves that had already been roughed up on the glisading the day before. Remember, falling as a kid and scraping your hands and knees you've got the idea. Postholing is when the snow is so soft that it won't bare your weigh and you step in up to your knees or thighs. The High Sierras are full of snow and we are calling it quits on this section until it melts out. So we will head north and find some lower sections to hike on. I think it will be Selah Valley(sp?) north to Lake of the Woods in Oregon. Good hiking. We were blessed with safety and good weather and even my injury (postholed on to a rock dinging up my foot which I could barely hobble on the next morning.) I taped and walked another 16 miles out with the help of Mark's trekking poles was better at the end of the day. And as good as new this morning. Thanks for your prayers.

Latest direct from SEKI:
6/20
Mehrten Creek is waist-high and difficult to cross. Snowbridges at Seven Mile and Nine Mile Creeks are ready to give way. 35% snow from Mehrten to Buck Creek. 90% snow from Buck to Bearpaw. Steep, icy & snowy slopes. Crampons can be beneficial. Beyond 15 miles: Above Hamilton Lake, 60% snow. In Kaweah Gap, 100% snow. Big Arroyo, 100% snow at 10,000'. Kern Canyon is snow free. Changing daily. Avalanches seem to be rare.

This is a lot of progress from 6/13, when snow was 95% above Bearpaw and solid above Hamilton. Bought a good rope yesterday, 100' of 8 mm prusik rope.

Definitely not for climbing, but for creek crossing, snow traverses in a pinch. Good report at other thread (6/18 TR) about more PCT hikers at Whitney summit over the weekend, so the JMT switchbacks are definitely passable, if difficult

Hi Rope.,.... stream crossing ??????? how do you get the rope tied above the water on both sides? Test this at home by putting a load on the rope throw it in a stream and watch it head to the bottom, order flowers! Thanks Doug

Doug: Not sure what you mean by "putting a load on the rope throw it in a stream", but if you mean a single fixed belay, don't worry, that's not the idea. Lot's of other, safe rigs its useful for. Triangle support on log crossing, handline, pack hauling. And sure, someone has to cross first to rig a handline, but if the strongest member can't cross safely without it, we're not crossing there anyway.

John & Jim:

HST improving rapidly. Of Note, snow bridges reported about to go on 6/20 at 8 Mile & 9 Mile are reported gone 6/21:

"Downed trees abundant. Patches of snow around 8 or 9 miles in, but heavier near the upper switchbacks of Buck Creek. Mehrten, 8 Mile, and 9 Mile are knee to waist high and hazardous by afternoon. No snow bridges. Crossing in the morning is recommended. Snow ends just before the ranger station. Bearpaw campground is 85% snow with 1 food-storage locker (bear boxes)visible. Trail to Hamilton has a few snow fields as you near the falls. Crossing is knee-high and slick. Hamilton campground area is completely under snow, no food-storage lockers visible. Trail above Hamilto to Kaweah is 60% snow. Ice axes and/or crampons recommended. Above Hamilton Lake, 60% snow. In Kaweah Gap, 100% snow. Big Arroyo, 100% snow at 10,000'. Kern Canyon is snow free. Changing daily. Avalanches seem to be rare."

After some confusion, Bearpaw HSC now "officially" opening July 1, according to the Facebook page, put back from June 24.

Good news for sure. Any idea of the source of this information?

Also, for my particular trip anyway, I have 3 weeks for the snow above Hamilton to melt even though I expect to encounter some at Kaweah as we did last year. In that weight is everything, and that I don't want to carry anything I don't need, I hope to leave anything related to snow, i.e. crampons (which I don't own) and the like, home when I fly to California. Will follow reports carefully with all the rest of you.

I appreciate everyone's help, concern and information.

John:

Don't know the original source, but its the current report at the SEKI TR page