Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineer's Route Conditions

What is the current mosquito situation at Upper Boyscout and Iceberg lakes?

also, anymore recent conditions update?

Update from our trip this weekend:

-Streams were flowing, but dry crossings can be the norm (I tripped over a hidden branch on my way down :))

-some mosquitoes at Lower Boy Scout Lake
-fewer mosquitoes at UBL

On the hike to the summit, there was ice and snow, which can be side stepped with some route finding.

I am planning on goin up the MR on Friday, 9/15. If anyone has been up the route this week I would love to hear what the conditions are like. I am especially interested to know if there has been any snow accumulation in the last few days.

anyone know how the route looks like currently? i heard we got a little snow up there this past week - staring early this year...anyone been up it recently?

I'm going up this weekend can post pics next Tuesday.

Yeti

thanks brother, much appreciated! curious what the chute and final 400 looks like, trying to determine if we should bring protection for climb on Sunday the 25th.

john

Team Andrew and Hugh tried to summit Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route on 9/13 but only got to 14,120 ft. There was some snow in the couloir but it was easily passable. It started snowing again while we climbed the couloir and by the time we got to the notch there was about 6 inches of new snow.

We got through the notch, but the traverse across the back side of the mountain was too treacherous. There were ice shelves with fresh snow on them from previous days plus that day's snow. It was too sketchy without crampons, ice axes, rope, or harnesses. We wouldn't have done it without all that gear plus an ice screw or 2.

Every time we ventured out, the snow would slip out from under our feet. If you fell, there are some rocks that would chew you up before you went over a precipice. It looked like it was snowing up there on 9/14 as well, so I doubt conditions have improved. You can read my journal of our trip with photos here:

http://hughmahoney.com/index.php/blog/73-mt-whitney-2011

awesome snapdad! thanks for the report, bummer you got turned around so close, but sounds like you made the right choice given the conditions and lack of equipment. we may be carrying protection and crampons afterall. got the following images just above the notch from OakleyDon taken on the same day...

I just got back from the Mountaineer's Route yesterday, September 17. There's no snow to speak of until you're high up in the Chute. Now is sticking more on the north facing slopes where it sees little to no sun exposure.

Above the Notch there is more snow. It sees sun for part of the day. This plus warm day time temperatures are causing it to soften up. It then freezes hard at night. These melt/freeze cycles are turning it to ice in spots making the climbing more "heads up". For some people these conditions would make for fun climbing and for others it would be unnerving.

Below are a couple pictures of the last 500'. The entire photo gallery is here: Mt. Whitney Mountaineer's Route September 17, 2011


September 17, 2011: Photo of the last 500' above the Notch emphasizing the lower end of this section of the route.



Photo of the last 500' emphasizing the last 2/3 of the route.



Climbing about half way up the final section of the route.



Near the top of the route.

awesome kurt! thanks for the update, looks like fun up there! i'm headed up sunday, hopefully our weather is as nice as yours was this weekend.

Thanks for posting the pictures Kurt. I'm a little surprised you guys had nothing on but plain ol' boots. Looking at those pictures, I would have thought the final section would have been too slippery. I would have turned back seeing that thin layer of snow...but then again I'm not a pro. Thanks again.

Climbed on 09/22. The section above the notch had quite a bit of ice on the route. It seemed as though it was most evident on necessary holds

We opted to traverse west for approximately 150 or so yards and then ascend some unknown chute/gully. I made a video of it(despite it being rather uneventful), and posted it here so you can get an idea of conditions on that day:

http://youtu.be/XsJi9gWYFkQ

Take care,
Nate!

Anyone been up past few days? My group would like to avoid ropes and class 4-5 moves ... so would love whatever insights folks have. But perhaps we're going too late in the year to avoid either of those. My climb last year (in June) was perfect.

Many thanks in advance!
Scot

When will you be there jscot? We are going up Oct 8. Looks like we need our warm undies at least.

What kind of permit is needed to go up the Mountaineer's Route and then go cross country to the area below Iceberg Lake? Does it require the Lottery permit? Also, is a permit required to hike up the peak that is just north of Lone Pine Lake? I realize this is more than the topic, but I cannot post a new topic. I have hiked the main trail up to now, but would like to just go xc and look around. I am not a technical climber. Thanks, Bob Rutledge.

I'm guessing you're thinking about a trip next summer? If so the current rules state you can apply for a permit six months ahead of the day you want to start your trip. It doesn't require entering the lottery unless you want to do a day trip. If it's a day trip then apply for it during the lottery.

Kurt,
Thank you for your reply. I was at LP Lake last Saturday with friends, weather was perfect! I was thinking of going up the MR in November, before it starts to rain, but next summer is ok. I have looked at photo sites of people going the MR, but am not sure of how you find the start of the E. Ledges section up the North Fork. Is it a trip you should be with someone who knows the trail, or is it reasonably obvious to see where to start that section? Also, would it be dangerous to wear an old school Kelty frame pack on that section? I ask because it looks pretty narrow on parts of the ledge from the photos I have seen. Bob Rutledge

It's November now, quotas are no longer in place, but permits are always required. Don't quote me but during the quota months, I believe only 10 are allowed up the North Fork. Right now until April, just walk in to the visitor's center and get a permit.

I would recommend going with someone who has been up there, but it's not necessary. Dayhikes are fine if you know the route. If not, it may be better to backpack and give yourself more of a time cushion and leisurely pace. I can find the route at night because I've been up there a few times, however, if it's your first time and want to dayhike, it may be difficult to route find in the dark.

Getting to the Ledges is straight forward if you use the "traditional" route and creek/waterfall crossings. If you use the Elephant's Ear variation, it's not so straightforward. The Ledges themselves are easily negotiated IMO. Much wider and less scary in real life than pictures. Plenty of cairns to guide you. You'll be fine with a frame pack. Be careful with it on the Elephant's Ear though.

Thank you for your reply and the great links. Think I will bypass the Elephant Ear the first time! If I wanted to hike to Tulainyo Lake, where should I be leaving the MR trail? I saw great photos from a trip the brockwell group took on Flikr. The idea of just using a tarp instead of a tent for camping is appealing. Bob Rutledge

Bob,
To see Tulainyo, leave the MR right after Clyde Meadows as you see Upper Boyscout Lake. Just look up, you'll see a gigantic scree slope. Most likely, you'll see a few slithering lines going up. Those are the boot tracks heading up. I don't know what shape you're in, but be forewarned, it is a TERRIBLE slog. Very loose sand/scree; you'll go up a step and slip back half a step. It'll destroy your boots and your morale. Once you make it to the top, you'll get a fantastic view of Whitney, Russell, and Carillion. Head towards the saddle of Russell/Carillion and you'll see the lake below.

http://snownymph.smugmug.com/Sierra-Neva...2118_Bgshd-L-LB

In the picture, the standard route is to the right of UBSL there. Looks at the spot that looks like fine sand. You're going up that entire slope towards the "V". Russell is the highest thing in the picture to the left. Tulainyo is on the other side of course.

If you plan on backpacking, I would do it at UBSL then go up. There's not much protection beyond the scree slope. If you have to retreat, it won't be pleasant going down. Hope that helps.