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Ron
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Nepali New Year (Bikram Sambat) Message
Friday, 13 April 2012, 3:03 pm
Press Release: US State Department
Nepali New Year (Bikram Sambat) Message
Press Statement
Hillary Rodham Clinton
Secretary of State
Washington, DC
April 12, 2012
________________________________________
On behalf of President Obama and the people of the United States, I am delighted to send best wishes to the people of Nepal as you celebrate the New Year.
As Nepalis around the world reflect on the achievements of the past year and look ahead to new possibilities and opportunities, know that the United States stands with you as a steadfast friend and partner. We look forward to working with Nepal to continue to strengthen the foundations of peace and prosperity in the years to come.
Enjoy a safe and happy holiday. Naya Barshako Shubha-Kamana!
ENDS
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I hope the Team had an opportunity to celebrate ... been there with friends and had a blast getting smashed...
Last edited by Richard P.; 04/14/12 02:27 PM. Reason: My wife is probably having a wild time celebrating Songkran with her family in Thailand...
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They made it Everest Base Camp a few days ago. Below is the latest update. http://sierramountaineering.com/blog/
Ron
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Ron
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His blog is one my daily morning (and evening) web checks.
Does anyone know if there is a spot track (or something similar) to follow progress? Don't think there will be many updates once the full attempt starts.
Last edited by KentuckyTodd; 04/17/12 10:34 PM. Reason: IPAD malfunction.
Why Yes, I am crazy. I'm just not stupid.
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Another article related to this climbing season on Everest:
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Mayo Clinic team heads to Mount Everest
Share Posted: Apr 17, 2012, 9:09 am
By Jeff Hansel
The Post-Bulletin, Austin MN
By the time you read this, a team of Mayo Clinic scientists should be nearing Kathmandu, Nepal, for a research journey to Mount Everest.
The researchers, including Alex Kasak, a research assistant from Austin, and an accompanying team of mountain climbers will serve as heart-failure models, team members said as they prepared to leave Monday from the Rochester International Airport.
That's possible because mountain climbers tend to experience many of the symptoms of heart-failure patients, such as shortness of breath and fluid in the lungs. Exercise at high altitude for a healthy individual has a similar effect as exercise at ground level for someone with heart failure.
While the Mayo researchers are studying National Geographic and the North Face expedition climbers, their colleagues back in Rochester will continue collecting data from heart-failure patients for comparison.
Intensive care unit fellow Dr. Doug Summerfield said the team will monitor climbers from base camp, about 17,500 to 18,000 feet above sea level. The expedition climbers will continue on to 29,000 feet.
Summerfield expects to monitor beat-to-beat variability in heart rhythm, sleep disruption, headaches, oxygen deficiency and fluid in the lungs.
Team leader Bruce Johnson, a Mayo Clinic scientist has traveled to a variety of high-altitude locations for research focused on altitude sickness, heart disease and other conditions. He said research won't end once the climb is complete, as the climbers and researchers will be flown to Mayo Clinic for further tests, "almost like a heart patient," Johnson said.
Each member of the team of Mayo Clinic researchers will handle different chores.
Amine Issa, who has a doctorate in biomedical engineering, will try to keep the testing devices working in the high altitude.
He expects heart rate and movement of climbers to be measured with "very high resolution." Then, he said, the team will come back and design algorithms for home-monitoring of heart patients. If, through early home monitoring, emergency responders can be alerted one to five minutes earlier, it could have profound implications.
Bryan Taylor will be watching for build-up of fluid in the lungs at high altitude, which occurs to most heart-failure patients.
Kasak will be looking at energy expenditure and body composition, and he'll take blood draws. He said the team is carting along close to 1,500 pounds of equipment and supplies, necessitating a split into two jets for the first leg of the trip.
Once the team reaches Nepal, the journey has just begun. It's a 53-mile trek, Kasak said, with sherpas and yaks "and carrying our own packs."
"I don't know how I'm going to do mentally or physically," he said.
Despite the uncertainty, he's excited about the travel.
"We're going with the North Face," Kasak said. "We're going with 20 of the most-competent people we can go with."
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Thanks Richard.
Looks like it's going to be a busy season on the Mountain again.
Why Yes, I am crazy. I'm just not stupid.
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Here's another somewhat interesting blog: http://www.explorersweb.com/kellogg5Chad wants to break the record for the fastest climb to the top of Everest. I'll go on record as saying I don't think it's going to happen... and even if I were strong enough to try it, I wouldn't because of the belief that it's a record that I think should remain with the Sherpa.
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The inevitable has already happened:
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Sherpa guide dies at Everest base camp
Last Update: 12:56 pm
Mount Everest (Simon Bruty/File, Getty Images)
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) — An expedition official says a Sherpa guide who has scaled Mount Everest at least 10 times has died at the mountain's base camp, becoming the first fatality in this year's spring climbing season.
Expedition organizer Dambar Parajuli says 40-year-old Karsang Namgyal died Wednesday from altitude sickness. The base camp is located at 17,380 feet.
Namgyal is the son of Ang Rita, a legendary climber who was the first to scale the world's highest mountain 10 times before health conditions forced him to retire.
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I am so sad to hear this news. I will pray for the family.
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We all know that there a probability that something like this would(still could)happen when people climb mountains.
Still hate that it happens. Pray for them.
Why Yes, I am crazy. I'm just not stupid.
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Some more news from Nepal: http://www.gulf-times.com/site/topics/ar...mp;parent_id=24I'd heard about this a few years ago and would definitely be interested in doing it some day.
Last edited by Richard P.; 04/26/12 03:23 AM. Reason: I see that there is a new post from Kurt!
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I'd heard about this a few years ago and would definitely be interested in doing it some day. 1050 miles !
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Richard, from one of those links: "Richards's experience underscores the vulnerability of even the strongest climbers high on Everest" - (speaking of his shortness of breath and evacuation from 23,000+ ft.) Kurt Wedburg's team I imagine is doing the standard route, but the Nat Geo team hopes to do the rare West Ridge Traverse. For a good read (despite what some other reviewers say), see what Hornbein and Unsoeld did and said in 1963: http://www.amazon.com/Everest-Ridge-Thom...7871&sr=8-1The reviewers who did not like the book (because it was too dry) just do not understand how chillingly accurate this statement is up there in the Death Zone. This is not a dry quote, rather it is full of meaning: Death had no meaning, nor, for that matter, did life. Tom Hornbein, Everest. The West Ridge, page 175
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Harvey, I think i read that ( i'll have to check) The NatGeo team is doing the West Ridge route and the standard with the plan on meeting at the top.
And Yes, you are correct. That book is not for everyone. I liked it.
Why Yes, I am crazy. I'm just not stupid.
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Probably read the book when I was a kid, but I don't remember, so I ordered a copy this evening...
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Richard, you will be glad you did. How can any of those "supposed" reviewers call these heavy lines too dry? Climb on, brother.
Harvey
Everest came down off Everest. It became, in a climbing sense, just another mountain…Not quite, really. But much of the battle lay inside.
Tom Hornbein, Everest. The West Ridge, page 150
The question of why we had come was not to be answered…The answers lay not on the summit of Everest, not in the sky above it, but in the world to which we belonged and must now return.
Tom Hornbein, Everest. The West Ridge, page 169
Existence on a mountain is simple. Seldom in life does it come any simpler: survival, plus the striving toward a summit.
Tom Hornbein, Everest. The West Ridge, page 180
We were committed….Suppose we fail? The thought brought no remorse, no fear. Once entertained, it hardly seemed even interesting. What now mattered most was right here: Willi and I, tied together on a rope, and the mountain, its summit not inaccessibly far above. The reason we had come for was within our grasp.
Tom Hornbein, Everest. The West Ridge, page 164
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