Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Almost...

Definitely not going to change my opinion about the fact that the only near-fatal mistake was walking away from the Smithsonian Hut.

Yes, gear choice might have made things slightly easier once I made that stupid decision.

Suggesting a stove is downright ridiculous... the wind was blowing from multiple directions at 50mph (by Doug's estimate) with tons of spindrift and new snow in the air.

I had thought of throwing my BD body bag (haven't a clue what the real model name of the bivy sack is), but, again, I had no intention of bivying.

Looking at the time stamps, it took me 2 hours to Outpost, 7.5 to Trail Crest and 11.5 to the summit. There is a LOT of careful climbing required on the Switchbacks once this much snow piles up on them. The West Side had a LOT of unconsolidated snow that made for slow travel.

Kevin your comment from Alaska went right over my head. Sorry you're stuck in KTM. There are a lot of much nicer places in the country to get stuck. Enjoy India. I had hoped to do some climbing/trekking over back in 07.

Doc, love the quotes. When is the book going to be published?

BP, I have a 15 months long streak going. Hopefully Earlene will give me the OK to team up with an experienced climber next month.

A LOT of thanks owed for a lot of nice comments.

And, yes, this is it for me. I moving on.

Richard,

I'm glad you're still with us. Thanks for sharing your ordeal. Your observations about the difficulty of keeping in motion to stay warm all night long are though-provoking and much appreciated.

Andy

+1000

Congratulations on two incredible accomplishments in one season. Day hiking the JMT was no small feat itself.

Your fearlessness in sharing your experience about surviving this ordeal proved what a champion you are.

David

Ok:) You are certainly free to carry all that redundant stuff you just described, and I will carry my Jetboil. Its light, reliable, works well in hash conditions, makes my life up high much more enjoyable, and is good to have in case of unexpected delays. Besides, I am willing to place a bet that my pack is lighter than yours, Sir

OK. You are certainly free to carry a stove, a pot, and fuel. In 25 years and 1200+ summits, I've never wanted a stove on a day hike, so I'll carry that second headlamp that you said is one too many. Besides, I am willing to place a bet that your lighter pack can't keep up with Richard's pack that is full of redundant stuff, sir.

*I am kicking myself for not just letting this thread die, but, I guess I am a glutton to make the dear readers suffer...


Obvious Point #1: There are a lot of different decisions that could have been made -- the most important bee-ing a stay at the hut(As stated by Richard)

Obvious Point #2: A planned bivvy would have called for completely different gear -- most importantly: A bivvy!

both choices #1 & #2 would have worked with the gear that Richard had -- no stove required (I have done 19deg in a bivvy without a stove, comfortably) However -- BIG however -- exchanging anything less than Richard had FOR a stove would not have improved his situation (Sitting in the 50 MPH storm and huddled in down whilst carefully cradling the Jetboil Stove brings about a vision of The Little Match Girl, sir)

a planned bivy is called camping.

Hi Ok so I looked and found the answer on page 31-32 take a small stove and a one cup/ pot right there where I wrote don't go alone expect to come down in the dark and a snow storm. No one took you up the mountain so don't....... THINK SOMEONE SHOULD BRING YOU DOWN . That would hint a carry, flight , or long term bivy bag recovery.
I recall three nice nights out watching the stars wondering wtf am I doing here ,The last was cliffed out on the east side of Irvine very cold. Doug had gone south with the cold and I was fighting the sleep , I had met a guy many years ago that told me he lost two friends on a climb. They had reached the summit 5 days over due, white out conditions. They didn't want to move in the storm , he said he did not want to die sitting in the storm and started walking down two days later walk/crawled into a base camp and was saved by another climbing group heading up. I forced Doug up and we walked/climbed all night. That was the last serious climb Doug and I did together.. Every thing has a price.
Make your own little check list of what you take as extra stuff but make sure you understand that making sound logical choices are the key of not needing to use the gear.Richard made that mistake about midway up the switchbacks and then tricked his self into letting the EEA Ego exceeds ability go on towards the summit. This pattern leads not to if but when. Thanks Doug

Some of the posts make me think of the discussion re: the merits of "light & fast" vs. "prepared & slow". A strong case can be made for both points of view.

A couple of observations - in an emergency, an empty pack can be a partial bivy for the lower half of the body. Also - I carry one or two chemical hotpacks - they're small & relatively light. I carry the ones shaped for feet - they also work as handwarmers. The hardwarmer variety are a bit thick for boots, but have used them in an emergency.

First of all Richard congratulations you have accomplished something never done before. I bet this record will stand for a Very long time.
Second I applaud you for posting an honest description of the Events that lead up to your uncomfortable situation.
Lastly I would never criticize you or your gear choices! It should be viewed as a reminder to be prepared to survive the night anywhere on the mountain, which you did. I learned a lot and started looking over the Gear in my bag.
Sure hindsight is very easy for all of those reading about your situation and not in your situation. If you would have walked up and walked down in your usually fashion with no issues, no one on the Forum would be said one word your Gear choices.
I wonder what would be said if you carried everything needed for a Comfortable well prepared night out at 14,000 feet in a snow storm with 50 MPH winds and then you didn’t make it?
Oh Richard, why was your pack so heavy and why would you ever carry a Stove on a Day hike?
I will be telling my Grandkids (Someday) about “Richard P” the only man to every climb Whitney 52 times in a single year.

Just in case, where do you want your memorial hike to be, Richard?

McDonalds Parking Lot??

+1 Kevin!!!!

Hmm..my Spidey Sense was tingling and I found myself here at the forum...

My visits to the forum are spaced many months apart these days since I don't have any projects (hikes) planned out west...so when I do log back on it is with both excitement and dread. Excitement to read about all the great accomplishments and fantastic updates on friends and acquaintances...and dread for reading about something tragic that happened in the period between when I last checked in.

I'd have been crushed to hear that something had happened to you Richard - so I'm really happy to hear your close brush was just a close brush. RP on his worst day is still better than me on my best - and if I had to put my son in anyone's care to shepherd him up the mountain safely, Richard would be the first person I'd call (will call).

Thanks for sharing the story. It has a multiplier effect on those of us that are less experienced that..hey..if this can happen to the immortals...geez..we'd better take a hard look at our own contingencies..!

So happy to hear you are safe and what an epic accomplishment. You earned a few leisurely weeks riding the lifts and gliding down the easier slopes at Mammoth man... Just don't go out of bounds (yeah..right..)

Chris / BeachAV8R

For those of us who hope to avoid making such a mistake, what lessons can be learned? Why did Richard walk away from the hut? Clearly he was in a bad state, suffering from injury, dehydration, exhaustion. He knew it was late in the day and that he should probably stay in the hut. He had lost his phone and was using his camera to judge the time of day. Yet he went on, because his own well-being was not priority number one. He needed to make a dinner date.

I think one lesson to draw from this is that even a very strong and smart mountaineer can incorrectly prioritize under extreme conditions. This is not a new lesson, but it's certainly one of the most important. There must be a way to retain it and follow it should we ever find ourselves in a similar emergency, struggling to think clearly.

Perhaps the answer is as simple as not scheduling any appointments immediately after a serious and potentially dangerous climb. Perhaps it is as complex as spending time introspecting and re-prioritizing one's goals in life.

The guy made rookie mistakes, that a strong and smart mountaineer wouldn't have. He's an ordinary hiker who spends a lot of time hiking trails and established routes. He was lucky, this time.

This. Very glad you are ok and congratulations on such an amazing feat. I've only climbed once, and to think of doing that every weekend is mind blowing and inspiring. Your account of the last trip is very thought provoking and shows just how even the most experience hiker can be taken off guard by the weather.
So glad this had a happy ending, and you have collected some truly amazing photographs on your journey.

-K

How much are you willing to bet, Sir? With all due respect for your tremendous experience and number of summits, lets not compare apples and oranges in the same mix. No one needs extra bivy gear for a summer day hike. However, winter is a different story, especially when done solo AND when the forecast is iffy. The guy put himself in a corner and his gear choices for this particular trip in winter conditions were sub-optimal, to say the least. His story is a reminder of how a planned winter day hike in the Sierra can EASILY turn into an overnight (or multi-day) epic.

I just read this. "incident report"
I would have to believe that Richard has more recent experience on the mountain than anyone else alive today or ever. My daughter and I read his report and we talked about how reading about others “incident reports” benefits everybody.

I have myself spent an unplanned night out in nylon shorts and a cotton tee shirt in the rain on a moonless night. I had gone off trail and it got dark. I intended to use my headlamp and get back to the trail and head home. My “incident “was caused by ME, not checking my headlamp before heading out, it was dead.
I was in terrain that was unsafe to travel in total darkness, steep drops. I removed my wet cotton tee shirt and spent the night balled up against a large tree for shelter and getting up and jumping to stay warm at unknown intervals. At sunrise I was clouded in zero visibility. My only clue to the direction of the trail was the sound of a jet plane; I knew that had to be South SFO. It worked and I found the trail and got out cold but ok. All this at sea level, Point Reyes National Park in January a few years ago.

To be questioning Richard’s choices in gear seems silly, who knows this mountain better and what is appropriate equipment to carry. I taught river/scuba rescue was a firefighter /paramedic, and have been climbing in winter in the ADK since I was 14.

All the survival talk in the world means nothing until YOU have a unplanned chance to test your knowledge.
Richard thanks for the lesson, I am sure that someone reading all of this will put this knowledge to use some day.