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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 8
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 8
I've made up the E-ledges and to the lower boy scout lake in May couple of years ago before retreating due to heavy snow storm. After the notch, if I traverse about 300 yds before going up the final gully, is this pretty doable w/o rope/pro? I had heard that further you traverse, the easier the final climb up to the summit. I'll have my ice ax and crampons with me. The groups words of experience and wisdom would be greatly appreciated!

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 96
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 96
Unlike May conditions,The Ledges in Decemeber are usually covered in ice,most people avoid them, using snowshoes to go further up the gully. Also,don't dismiss the chute so fast. Doing the chute in May can be completely different from doing it in December. Depending on what type of snow year we are having, there could be a thin layer of ice in the chute or waist deep powder and high avalanche conditions.There could even be a cornice that you would have to negotiate at the top of the chute before you even get past the notch. Once past the notch,on the north side, you could encounter a solid sheet of ice. People slide down the north side to their deaths in the summer, I'm sure you can imagine what it might be like in December.
Either way, you should be very comfortable with ice axe self arrest, post-holing, and crampon useage on steep, exposed angles.You have to factor in the weather too. It can change in a flash in late December. Some of the "Bob's" on this website should be able to give you some first had knowledge though. Just my two cents.

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 8
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 8
Thanks for the info. Yes, I'm hoping that there will be enough snow pack to bypass the e-ledges.

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 447
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 447
Hey veloman, once past the notch make a hard left and do a little class 3 work to the summit, it seems much safer than taking Mr Toads wild ride down the icy slopes straight ahead. Have fun Kimjo, just listen to yourself and be safe.


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