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Helambu / Langtang Trek Day 1: Sundarijal to Kutumsang 19.40 miles up to an elevation of about 8100'. Where is everybody? Only about five tourists all day. Didn't realize there was such a good view from Chisapani! The other two times I had been here was during Monsoon and there were no views anywhere. Also had great views at sunset from the Dining Room. Picked the place because of the young , beautiful owner and the fact that in spite of the wind, it was about 85° in there. Some more cultural controversy... the young daughter doesn't get to go to school, but her much younger brother does. Today was the start of the Holi Festival. Beautiful full moon rise this evening, just after sunset. Some kids chased me thru one village trying to paint my hands and face. https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=62c95151ab48ca998
Last edited by Richard P.; 03/26/13 02:09 PM. Reason: Added Spotwalla.
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Enjoying reading your reports Richard. Too bad that you weren't able to track down the little boy in the pic... would have been interesting to see what he looks like, and if he still remembered you. BTW: The Rhododendrons are out of this world right now! Rhododenrons are Washington's state flower, and I was going to tell you that we've got some that grow as tall as houses... then I saw your pic! It's HUGE! Ours are more "bushy"; the one in your picture seems to grow more like a tree. Interesting. Richard's picture:
 Sounds like you're having a great time! Respiratory infection OK?
"What we have done for ourselves alone dies with us; what we have done for others and the world remains and is immortal." Albert Pike
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Hey Richard...Just saw your pictures a couple of days ago and what a place to be at, congrats on getting back there..
Thanks for the day by day reports...
mark
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Rosie, everything is huge in the Himalaya!
Thanks Mark.
Day 2: Kutumsang to Ghopte
9.31 miles up to an elevation of about 11,200'.
The conversation at breakfast was about heading up to Phedi... The young lady convinced me that I shouldn't push any farther than Ghopte... This would still make it possible to push over the Laurebina La and on to Gosainkunda on Day 3.
Although only about 9.3 miles, the typical Nepali contours around/up/down canyons made this a tough day!
The multi-colored Rhododendrons just outside of Kutumsang were amazing again.
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Day 3: Ghopte over the Laurebina La to Laurebina
Probably a little over 10 miles. Max elevation of about 15,220'. Ending elevation of about 13,050'.
The weather was cold and windy, with a lot of cloud cover, so there really weren't any views. The crossing went easier than expected, and the clouds parted for a short while, making for some spectacular scenery. (It was cold enough that the batteries in the GPS went from 3 bars to zero bars in the span of a few hours, so I have no accurate estimate of the distance.)
Gosain Kund was still frozen with as blanket of snow, so I decided to continue descending. I had read that Laurebina has awesome Annapurna Himal views, so that's where I decided to stay.
Just as I stepped into the lodge, the heavy snow flurries started. Another round of good timing on my part.
===============
Day 3: Lasurebinas to Thulo Syaphru
5.79 miles down to an elevation of about 7,215'.
A really easy day as I wanted to be able to shower during the warm part of the day...
I spent time with another really beautiful young Nepali woman who I probably also visited with as a young girl at a lodge in Cholangpati.
FedEx 2-hour Service
After tea, she asked if I was carrying as heavy load, and when I said no, she asked if I would deliver a package to relatives in Thulo Syaphru.
So I did, and here I sit, taking in the views and typing some notes.
I'd like to push all the way in to Kyanjin Gumba (I love the way they have so many spellings for so many Nepali words - I generally write this as Gompa.), but think Langtang may be the limit of my legs. The Lodge owner also recommended a return that avoids doubling back too much and will take me up near the Tibet border... sounds interesting and I'll probably do it if I don't run out of money... I would have never expected Helambu/Langtang to be priced as high as it is... 3000+ Rupees would have got me thru as week the last time I was here... this time, it won't even get me thru two days.
Last edited by Richard P.; 03/29/13 08:45 AM. Reason: Yes, I'm mostly better, but occasionally spit out some really ugly stuff.
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Seems like you are regaining your sea, um, mountain legs. Miles and elevation climbing since the Annapurna section. More photos, please!
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Since I've got a decent connection and free power, I'll try to comply.....
Check then link in a little while...
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Very nice! Thanks! Now have to grab a map to put this into perspective.
Hey, what antibiotics, if any, at you carrying? I am putting together my toolkit. And such.
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This is the only thing on my "list". Go see the Himalayas with my own eyes. I don't make lists of places or peaks, but this is something I must do and will do and so I appreciate the posts and pics. Of course, it's always more fun with friends along....thank you for allowing us to travel with you, albeit vicariously.
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I wish I could figure out how to zoom the lens on my Nexus phone...
I added a Good Morning photo to the album...
Thanks Tracie. It is pretty cool being able to connect back home while seeing this...
Akichow, maybe Docs Lankford or Murray will chime in on the meds advice...
Last edited by Richard P.; 03/30/13 01:24 AM. Reason: It's as simple as pinch to zoom...
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OCD that I am on trip prep, I actually am probably covered for meds -- went to an excellent travel clinic. Sometimes there is a disconnect, though, between the info available here and the reality....
Weighed my stuff today. 36 lbs, including boots, day pack, etc. Should be fine for the flight to Lukla.....
Very hard to still be here with all the fun to be had there!
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I need to look at your schedule again so I can wish you bon voyage...
I posted a pic of a Porter load that I couldn't even lift off of the ground..... I bet Doug can calculate the approximate weight.
I'm in Rimchhe having lunch... Only about a third of the way in...
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Day 5: Thulo Syaphru to Langtang
14.87 miles up to an altitude of 11,110'
I love the "You need a guide." and "That's impossible." that I keep hearing from the non-Sherpa Tea House owners. (With the Sherpas, it's "You walk like a Sherpa." or "You walk like a Nepali.")
After hearing it for about the tenth time, I gave in and stopped at Langtang. I got an escort into the Village by five or six women who didn't want me choosing another lodge.
Spent the evening with a Frenchman who really should have headed down to recover before trying to get up high again. (He was still at the same place when I was heading down today. Obviously, he one of the poor souls who never acclimatize. )
***************
Day 6: Langtang to Kyanjin Gomba
4.21 miles up to an altitude of 12,625'
About an hour and a half, so I really could have pushed in all the way...
Around lunchtime, a group of seven Japanese Seniors arrived back from a climb of Kyanjin Ri. We spent meals and more together for the next few days. The Elder Statesman of the group has a son named Shinichi and the group got a kick out of seeing Shin on Baldy and as the flying eagle on Pinky Finger.
###############
Day 7: 15km up the Langtang Valley
18.59 miles up to an altitude of about 13,700 '
The map was telling me that I was way up in the high 4000s, but my GPS and body disagreed. (Considering the number of other errors in the map...)
This was a Highlight Day... First tracks... Not a soul in sight all day... Spectacular scenery...
I was hoping to get up onto the Langtang Glacier, but I had said 12:00 or 15km would be the turn-around time...
Coincidentally, I found a research station (for water and weather) as I was looking for someplace to sit for lunch...
The Japanese were excited that I had made it close to Morimoto Camp and wanted to see all the photos. More of the "You couldn't have possibly gone that far." from the lodge staff.
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Day 8: Kyanjin Gomba to Khangjim
18.22 miles down and up to an elevation of 7398'
Based on the conversations that I've had with several locals, I'm heading towards Tibet... Tomorrow...
Sweating thru the uphills, the mind wanders... "Free Tibet with the purchase of an overpriced Nepali meal..." and I'm going to run around naked at the border with Free Tibet painted on my chest so that I don't have to pay for an overpriced bus ticket back to Kathmandu. (I figure the Nepali authorities will have me sent to jail... a free ride back to KTM.)(Maybe I can be blamed for the Chinese closing the border again. )
BTW, all of this BS regarding expensive.....
This is a Whole Other World away from the Tourist crowds. I'm the only foreigner in this village...
BTW2: I ran into the Folk Singer (one of the Wild Women at Bamboo) from VA today. She was heading in to Langtang.
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Great updates, keep them coming!
Stock up on your kerchiefs, who knows when you'll be able to bring back more.
cheers
Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.
Helen Keller
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I sitting in a hotel across the street from the Bus Station in Chilime.....
I was going to say that I've finished this trek and am safe and sound, but there's that dangerous bus ride back to KTM...
Lots to say about the last two days.....later.
Someone get me a beer...
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Be safe, and let an old woman sit down on that bus!
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For sharing your adventures I'll get you two beers (just as long as I get one). Great adventure, can't wait to hear the stories.
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Didn't give up my seat (couldn't have even if I wanted to because I was pinned in by my rather large seat companion...) Lots of SRO passengers because the bus crew won't pass up the opportunity to make more money.
The beer in Chilime tasted as good as it possibly could...
The people of Chilime haven't figured out the Tourist Trap Pricing Scheme yet... (which was a really nice thing).
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Day 9: Khangjim to Timure and Rasuwa (Tibet border)
~10.5 miles to the border; 13.26 miles total to an elevation of 5695'
A pretty late start for as relatively easy day...
A landslide has destroyed part of the trail system, so it was essentially road walking after Lingling. It started raining on the way to Timure, so I stopped in at a lodge, figuring the border visit would wait until tomorrow. When the rain stopped at about 3:00pm, I headed north.
It was interesting walking along the Bhote Koshi Nadi...
Miles and miles of runnable rapids...
Lots of remnants of road building equipment...
Not much "life" on either side of the border bridge...
Very surprising how little traffic there is on such an expensive road...
Tried the local (Sangong) dish with potato curry... very good, but, as usual, they gave me way too much... The freshly made tomato soup was also excellent.
Three teen daughters did most of the cooking. Mom only took over for the special menu items.
Pushing for the Bus Stop at Chilime tomorrow... Maybe Kathmandu on Friday...
+++++++++++++++
Day 10: Timure to Chilime
15.02 miles to an elevation of 5865'
I knew I was in for some climbing from having seen the villages I would be passing through the day before from the other side of the canyon... Little did I know that it was going to be in excess of 4,400'! Nearly straight up! There were maybe 15 switchbacks... The rest of it was stairs and steep dirt. Since this was going to be my last day, I decided to push the pace. That lasted for about a thousand meters and then I fell apart and started wishing for it to end. Of course, after reaching (yet another) Tatopani (hot water - springs - rather disappointing), there was the knee-busting ~4000' of descent.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Day 11: The Bus Ride to Kathmandu
I don't think I need to say anymore than:
89.1 miles took NINE HOURS AND TWENTY MINUTES!!!!!
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So I blazed through the Helambu / Langtang Trek, with the addition of a good portion of the Tamang Heritage Trail in 10 days. Mileage was just under 130.
This one felt so much better...
Fitter...
Acclimatized...
Only two really short sections of road to contend with...
Seeing the scenery that I hadn't seen on two previous Monsoon treks...
The Langtang Valley is pretty spectacular.
Now to figure out what I'm going to do with my remaining time over here...
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