Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mountaineer's Route Conditions

Excellent!
I'll be watching for "new and improved" photos

Kurt: we have a group from Las Vegas that will be on the mountain on April 18-20, so maybe see you there. Since we'll have a two-hour hike just to get to the trailhead, I'm trying to get everyone started early on April 18.

Here are some photos from a Langley trip in March:
Mt. Langley via Tuttle Creek

Paul Kuroda

Sounds great Paul I'll look forward to seeing you guys up there. It makes for a big day to start from the gate. It's about 6600' meaning you're adding about 1700' of elevation gain over about 3.7 miles. I think you're wise to get an early start.

I’ve taken the E-Ledges a few times, with a light pack on a dry trail. There’s a chance of snow this week, and our group will be carrying large packs. Instead of taking the E-Ledges, is staying in the drainage near the creek an option?

Headed up the route this weekend. Any intel on conditions would be great, been getting mixed info on snow levels and especially curious about snow/ice on the 'final 400'
Thank you in advance

Hearing various people ask about the Mountaineers Route conditions I decided to offer the following thoughts after my MR hike on Friday 6/6/2014.

1. The trail from the Portal to Iceberg Lake is mostly clear of snow with just a few patches that do not impede travel I just used hiking poles to this point.

2. From Iceberg Lake it was time for Ice axe and crampons, as I started up the chute in the pm the snow was firm at first but became softer as I ascended and the grade increased requiring firmer positioning of my ice axe. Above the snow tongue and before the Notch the scree was wet and unstable, maybe here its better to stay on the rocks where possible. This I found was the least pleasant part of the hike.

3. Arriving at the Notch the final 400' was mostly dry except for about approx. 150' of snow on the right side below the summit. There were a few other patches but I stayed to the left side almost all the way up where the hand holds felt very comfortable only jogging over to the center just below the summit.

4. I do not normally trust ducks/cairns, but I did notice that from above Upper Boy Scout Lake to Iceberg Lake they marked out a very economical route through that rough section. People have different opinions on weather they should even be there so I would not recommend relying on them.

5. I came down via the Main Trail to complete the loop. The switchbacks were in reasonable condition with some snow around the cables and on the ends of a few switchbacks, these were easily bypassed and didn't seem to be a problem to most folk.

At the moment things are melting really fast, but that can change from day to day, for me Friday was another great day in the Sierras.

Cheers Phil

Snow in the Chute



Looking up the final 400 mostly clear with some snow on the right



The final snow field before the summit, avoiding this I stayed to the left side.



other pics

[url=http://philbrown.smugmug.com/Other/Whitney-Mountaineers-Route/41566669_MVwCzF#!i=3301591166&k=W5TnWSz][/url]

Thanks for the trip report! Heading up next week, glad to see it's in good condition so early.

Hi Phil,
I enjoyed your trip report very much.

I spent hours to look over your "other" hiking photo albums.
I really enjoyed them. My wife enjoyed especially Mt. Fuji album because she climbed Mt. Fuji when she was in high school.
I noticed that you hike and climb many different mountains and peaks by yourself.
Your album gave me an good idea where to hike for next 10 years.

Thank you again.
Shin

I went up the MR Sunday morning (July 13). From Iceberg Lake up to the Notch I hiked entirely on dry rock and dirt. No snow was encountered on the Final 400 (first chute to the left) to the summit plateau. There was a teaspoon of ice on the Final 400, otherwise all water (not much of it) was in liquid form due to the warm temperature (even in the shade at 0930 AM).

In another thread Doug Sr observed that it is raining on the mountain today (Monday July 14). The temperature will eventually drop. The ice will then revisit us.

Be safe and enjoy the Mountain. 50th anniversary of the Wilderness Act just around the corner now.

Jim F

I went up the MR yesterday (July 25). From the Notch: There is no snow in the first chute to the left (the Final 400'), but some ice at the very bottom of the chute at 0900. The "easy traverse" is completely free of snow and ice. There was a great deal of traffic (hikers and climbers) up the North Fork. Really warm and calm at the Portal early in the morning (before sunrise), but very windy and somewhat chilly above Upper Boy Scout Lake.

Enjoy the Mountain.

Jim

Rick G. and I came down on mountaineer's route on Saturday after climbed up via East Buttress. The last 400 section was a bit hazardous condition with grapel, snow, some ice, and fresh scree here and there.
Many sections of passage from the Notch to the Iceberg lake were very loose especially mid section. Unable to use west side passage along the wall because of snow.
The access passage to the "Elephant Ear" was blocked off.
Rest of the trail was just fine.
Plenty of water was running on Clyde meadow and other creek crossings.

I headed up the North Fork (all the way from LPCG!) for the first time in a year last Sunday...

You can do the Rockwell Shortcut / Wall Route / North Side if you don't mind a little bit of bushwhacking. They have about twenty feet of Willows jammed in at The Merge...

Obviously, They don't want us using it.

I came down the Normal Route. Doug had said a Trail Crew had been up there, but I couldn't tell.

The best part... Doug, Earlene, JR., etc... The worst... Myles without Amy! Again!

No snow on the Final 400'...
A little ice and some water seepage on the extreme right side...

Most of the snow in the main couloir has melted out, but there were a few places where a move away from the wall was required...

Catwalk was dry... and as always, the fun way down.

Trail work was obvious above the stream crossing down low... Tree trunks and roots were all clear. You still need to climb over a few a little higher.

Pathetic Facts:
- just shy of 7 hours up the Main Trail.
- even worse... about 5 hours down the MR.

Interesting. One day I'm gonna do the MR.

Funny you call 12 hours via the Mountaineer's route "pathetic." I call it fantastic. Why hurry - take it easy and smell the roses (or in this case the granite!). I would say, chock it up to experience. As always, it's fun to read your climbing reports.

There's still quite a bit of "summer" left...

Scott, using experienced is a lot kinder than "getting old and slow."

Here are a few pics:

Any info on current conditions of the Mountaineers Route? Looking to traverse East Ridge Russell to Mountaineers on Whitney and then down the main trail this weekend 10/12. Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks very much,
Alex

two of us stayed at iceburg lake on Saturday October 4th. we summited on October 5th and hiked down to the portal. no snow at iceberg lake, a little in the chute. we brought microspikes but did not use them. the bottom section of the final 400 was a little icy. it took us longer to climb down than up. I missed a hand hold at the very bottom of the final 400 and slipped on the ice and slid on my stomach the last 8-10 feet. a lady with us had a very difficult time because the hand holds were icy. we had to lower her down. the other four in our group had no problem once they figured out the route.
weather conditions were perfect. almost no wind. our filters and camelback hoses froze at night. there weren't many people on that side of the mountain, only six of us, so be careful. temps were probably high 20's. no need to carry extra water as it is everywhere. we did underestimate how long it would take us to get to the portal and missed dinner at the store, that was the worst part.

Nice brisk fall weather with many leaves on the ground in the north fork. The water crossing to the ledges is a trickle. Water everywhere was a trickle. Ice patch on the entrance to the slabs that was still frozen solid in the afternoon. Some snow in the chute, avoidable. Could use more, a lot more. Ice and snow patches in the final 400. Not a lot but enough to warrant extra caution.

Was great to run into So.BayMark on the way up. He was planning a summit camp. I forgot to ask for a cookie.

Doug, Earlene, Gigamike, Betsy and Jack were at the store discussing all their recent adventures. Good to see them all again.

Some photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/100492563@N07/sets/72157648290849678/

Thanks for the info Steveb! What a great resource this forum is! Yesterday we completed the E. Ridge of Russell to the North Face of Whitney to Muir and back down the trail. North Face of Whitney was clear so we took that route instead of Mountaineers. Amazing, perfect conditions the entire way. We did the E. Face, E. Buttress and Fishhook Arete in 2006. Other than the poo under countless rocks at Iceberg Lake, conditions weren't too bad. Yesterday was a shock. Empty meal packages and at least 15 filled wagbags at Upper Boyscout Lake and Whitney Plateau. I guess they're doing everyone a favor by at least shitting in a bag. Disappointing.