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Joined: May 2003
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MRCS - so are you still undecided on your route? We'll be up there for 7 or 8 days also. Our plan is to setup camp at Iceberg Lake and do Whitney by the MR one day, Russell by the South Slope on another day, and Thor Peak on our way out. I'll bring some extra Jager if you think you'll be around Iceberg!

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mjollnir: When are you planning to arrive in Lone Pine, and where do you want to stay overnight? Where do you want to park your car on WPR and when do you want to start hiking?

I'm not sure about the route but prefer to be back in SF no later than 1700 on Thursday; also wanted to spend a night on the top. So I don't really have so much time, unless I change my mind.

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MRCS - The current plan is to arrive in Lone Pine around 9 or 10AM on Saturday. We'll grab a few last minute items and head up WPR until the truck won't go any further. My goal for Saturday is to make it to the trailhead. Ideally, I'd like to be at Iceberg Lake on Sunday. That big slope just beyond LBSL is an avalanche concern though. If the slope looks really bad, we'll bivy at LBSL and tackle the slope in the wee hours of the night (when it's frozen).

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Ken
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I've talked to some friends who are intested in just hiking in as far as the portal. Does anyone know if any of the toilets are accessible during the winter snow time, or are they all locked up?

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One-two weeks ago one toilet at the MW trailhead was open. I believe it's still open.

I am leaving now for Whitney. See you there.

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Hi Guys,

It's nice talking to you again.

<a href="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/pictures/mrd/whitney/20040124-28/index.htm" target="mrd"><img src="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/pictures/mrd/whitney/20040124-28/img/whitney_trail_crest.jpg" width=600 height=400 alt="Mt. Whitney Trail Crest" border=0></a>


I survived the snow storm, slept on the ridge, was white out two times, and lost almost all propane and food. I'm going to post more pictures and some description (including the temperature log) shortly, so come back soon.

Those of you who met me there send me an email, please.

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That photo of trail crest during a real winter storm is amazing. I can hardly imagine the commitment it would take to get there in the heart of the winter. Congratulations and look forward to seeing more pictures of your trip.

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MRCS, Great photo! I got an adrenaline rush just from seeing it on my pc. High five for your accomplishment.
-Rick

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No, I did not summit it. After I woke up, looked around and recalled the previous day, I wanted to be at the Trail Camp as soon and safely as possible.

<a href="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/pictures/mrd/whitney/20040124-28/index.htm" target="mrd"><img src="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/pictures/mrd/whitney/20040124-28/img/whitney_trail_last_camp.jpg" width=600 height=400 alt="Mt.Whitney, the last camp at 13,600" border=0></a>

<a href="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/pictures/mrd/whitney/20040124-28/index.htm" target="mrd">See more pictures</a>

Joined: Jul 2003
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What! you did not summit! Excuses! Excuses!

Joined: Nov 2003
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Looks like a great climb, no matter that you didn't make the summit. On stoves, I use an MSR dragonfly. It burns almost anything, white gas, unleaded car gas, kerosene, even jet fuel (don't ask) and works well both in cold weather and high altitude. You can put it in blowtorch mode and melt snow for water like crazy.

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Mr_Man:

Excuses come from our fear and physical and mental imperfection. However, it is better to have excuses than to be sorry.

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This report is based on my trip done between January 24 and 28 of 2004.

Here are my recommendations related to the Whitney trail

For those who like to follow the trail the Outpost Camp would be the maximum target. It is a nice snowshoeing with availability of a few water sources.

For those who are good in navigation and would like to spend more time in the mountains, the Trail Camp would be appropriate. No water sources are available above the Mirror Lake. The snow trail may disappear without warning.

For those who would like to challenge the mountains, the rest of the trail is waiting for you. Be prepared, however, for a cold and nasty weather with a dry and deep snow. Do not expect the switchbacks or the ridge trail to be cleared out any soon.

Avalanches

I am not an avalanche expert, but my impression was that up to the Trail Camp there was not an avalanche danger. However, the snow chute just below the Trail Crest is packed with a huge massive of snow which may (or maybe not) collapse some day.

I would strongly recommend snowshoes up to and just above the Trail Camp and crampons above that point.

<table border=0 width=660><tr><td align="center">Temperature Log</td></tr><tr><td align="center"><table border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"><tr align="center"><td rowspan=2>Day</td><td rowspan=2>Time</td><td colspan=2>Teperature (C)</td><td colspan=2>Altimeter (Feet)</td><td rowspan=2>Location</td></tr><tr align="center"><td>Out</td><td>In</td><td>CASIO</td><td>SUUNTO</td></tr><tr align="right"><td rowspan=4 align="center">1</td><td>11:00</td><td>6</td><td> </td><td>8,420</td><td>7,930</td><td align="left">Whitney Portal Campground</td></tr><tr align="right"><td>12:20</td><td>8</td><td> </td><td>9,000</td><td>8,450</td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td>15:20</td><td>0</td><td> </td><td>10,060</td><td>9,530</td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td>20:00</td><td>-10</td><td>-5</td><td>10,940</td><td>10,460</td><td align="left" rowspan=2>Outpost Camp</td></tr><tr align="right"><td rowspan=6 align="center">2</td><td>8:00</td><td> </td><td>-7</td><td>10,820</td><td>10,420</td></tr><tr align="right"><td>10:00</td><td>-13</td><td> </td><td> </td><td> </td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td>13:00</td><td>-5</td><td> </td><td>11,220</td><td>10,680</td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td>15:00</td><td>-8</td><td> </td><td>11,560</td><td>11,090</td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td>17:00</td><td>-13</td><td> </td><td>12,100</td><td>11,670</td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td>21:00</td><td>-20</td><td>-10</td><td>12,460</td><td>11,980</td><td align="left" rowspan=2>Trail Camp</td></tr><tr align="right"><td rowspan=2 align="center">3</td><td>7:50</td><td> </td><td>-13</td><td> </td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td>11:30</td><td>-4</td><td> </td><td>12,360</td><td>11,920</td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td rowspan=2 align="center">4</td><td>6:40</td><td> </td><td>-8</td><td>12,600</td><td>12,240</td><td align="left">Above the Trail Camp</td></tr><tr align="right"><td>14:40</td><td> </td><td> </td><td>13,880</td><td>13,490</td><td> </td></tr><tr align="right"><td align="center">5</td><td>7:14</td><td> </td><td>-14</td><td>13,720</td><td>13,440</td><td align="left">The ridge</td></tr></table></td></tr><tr><td>
Out-outside the tent
In-inside the tent

Above the Trail Camp the measurement was not reliable because my thermometer broke. I would think that the real temperature was about 10C degrees lower than in the table.
</td></tr></table>

<a href="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/pictures/mrd/whitney/20040124-28/index.htm" target="mrd">Click here to see more pictures from that trip</a>
<a href="http://www.worldofadventures.com/marcus/pictures/mrd/whitney/20040124-28/whitney_winter_ascend.htm" target="mrd">Click here to read a short story about that trip</a>

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GoingBackSoon :

Thanks. In most cases I always make to the summit, any summit I have so far attempted. Sometimes, however, I feel too exhausted or too weak mentally to handle the obstacles. Sometimes my instinct tells me to give up. In my case of solo climbing even the smallest injury may be fatal; I might not be able to get down and there would be no one to help me.

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Solo in those conditions? Brave, Risky, maybe a tad foolhardy, but exciting for sure. Cool pictures and account. Have fun, but don't get yourself killed!!
Cheers....Adrian

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MRCS,

I read your story and even though some may say that not summitting is not an accomplishment, I beleive that you made a serious accomplishment with your smart mountainering skills by deciding to come back down on the "good day" instead of trying to summit. If you had decided to go back up, you may not be replying to all of us now. Smart move, and very interesting story.

I'm also interested in any recommendations that you have on summitting Shasta. I've looked at your website and appreciate your maps and climbing logs but would also like to see if you have anything else you'd like to offer.

Chris

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<a name="jz">ExtremeHiker.com,</a>

I would be glade to share or offer more, but what specifically do you have in mind?

In case of Shasta, I climb it at least once a year, never in winter though. Mt Whitney is the only one I am not afraid to climb in winter (because of avalanches). I was introduce to winter climbing by my previous climbing partner and a friend, John Zazzara., I also try to climb every year my other favorite mountains such as Mt. Rainier, Backer and Adams (before Hood). I love glacier climbing and ice climbing, but the later rather with the rope.

Marek

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mrcs, I was very impressed with your trip. I am fully supportive of people who like to do solo trips, I understand the draw.

However, going into that environment involves some calculated risks. One thing that struck me was that you got yourself onto a snow slope, that by your reconning (and I have no reason to doubt), was very capable of a major slide while you were on it. I suppose it is partially because that situation scares the hell out of me, that I think that was the most frightening part of your adventure.

I would respectfully suggest that taking an avi course would be a good idea, if you are going to be in that environment. Avalanches are not one of the things in nature that I think it is wise to learn about from experience......

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MRCS - I'm interested in what months you have climbed Shasta, and what months you would recommend for someone who has not climbed it before. I've done Whitney a number of times and would like to broaden my climbing skills.. THanks for any advice that you could give!

Chris

Joined: Jun 2003
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Whitney in the winter...certainly a much greater challenge then most of us wish to face. I suspect quiet and beautiful and magestic.

It is never a mistake to evaluate the situation and risk and make a safe choice. As they say...you can always come back on a different day when weather and circumstances are more favorable.
The trip success is not based only on standing on the summit. It is the overall experience of being there, cold and everything.

I never heard any complaining about how hard it really was wading through the snow, how long and cold the nights were, how it really feels to be hungrey and thirsty and the sacrifice of trying to summit in the heart of the winter. That seemed to go with being there that time of year. Courage runs deep in your veins.

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White Mountain/
Barcroft Station

Elev 12,410’

Upper Tyndall Creek
Elev 11,441’

Crabtree Meadows
Elev 10,700’

Cottonwood Lakes
Elev 10,196’

Lone Pine
Elev. 3,727’

Hunter Mountain
Elev. 6,880’

Death Valley/
Furnace Creek

Elev. -193’

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